Bad news- when I started up my 95SR this morning, it started vibrating terribly. Didn't do that when I parked it. I fluttered the throttle and it stayed nasty- making bad noises, but not so bad that I didn't stupidly drive it to work 7 miles away. I think one or more cylinders was not making power, I could hear the exhaust missing. It has been making a ticking noise for a long time which seemed to be louder the past few days. It took a lot of pedal to get up to any speed and I drove with my hazards on for a while, under 45.

I popped the hood halfway there to see if maybe one of the pistons was sticking out of the intake plenum or something and there was a burning smell- not intense, but not faint either. Didn't smell like gas or oil, or anything specifically.

It sounded bad, though I didn't hear any discernable knocking, scraping, or mechanical noise other than the same ticking noise. As far as I know, this is an interference engine so if a valve or valve spring broke, I should have been hearing from serious mechanical noise- would it even have kept running? The engine was rebuilt 61k miles ago and has 207k miles on it total.

Here are some things that I'm thinking:

EFI module
Spark plugs
Ignition wires
Broken valve spring(s)

Help! I really need to be able to get to work. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif" alt="" />

The engine would still run with a bent or broken valve, but it would run rough. Noise may or may not be significant. You can do a compression check if you think there's a valve problem. First, I'd put a vacuum gauge on an intake manifold port and see if the vacuum is steady or if it flutters. If it shows unstable vacuum at idle, there's likely a valve problem.

When was your last tuneup?

Frank

What do you mean by tuneup? Planning on pulling the intake plenum and valve covers tonight if possible, hopefully tonight I'll know whether or not it's a broken spring or valve problem. Hopefully my new landlord who works on cars has a vacuum tester- all I have in this area is my toolbox.

Went out and tried it again- no mechanical scraping noise, but one cylinder is definitely not functional.

Anybody else have ideas of things to check?

I mean plugs, wires, PCV valve, EGR system check/replace, vacuum hose inspection, ignition timing adjustment and anything else that your engine requires as periodic/preventative maintenance.

Frank

All that probably hasn't been seriously checked over in a few years. I've had it for a year or so and I've fixed things that have gone wrong and checked fluids since then, but the rebuilt (2004? 2005?) would have been the last service point for most of those, most likely.

I talked to the guy who rebuilt it and every moving part was replaced when he did it. So most likely it's not a broken valve spring.

Valve springs are almost never replaced during a rebuild. There's usually no need if they measure at spec free length. Many other parts are also routinely reused. Also, many parts that don't move should be replaced. I'm not trying to scare you - just pointing out that a statement like "all moving parts were replaced" means nothing.

If you haven't done anything other than change the fluids for 60k miles, several things are due for inspection and/or change.

Frank

Okay- I spoke with the guy who actually did the work (small shop) and directly asked him if he replaced the valve springs, and he said yes. We'll see, I suppose.

Sorry for my noviceness, I'm still learning. Can you fill me in on what things I should check while I'm in there?

Also, just to check myself- will one cylinder not firing on this engine cause it to vibrate fairly badly? Could this vibration be caused by something as simple as a bad plug wire?

Thanks!

I'm not going to call him a liar, but I'll bet I could introduce you to a few hundred folks who would. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" />



There's no shame in being a novice.... we all were once. The fact that you're asking is the first step to enlightenment. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" /> Next thing you know, you'll be doing your own rebuilds. You're better off getting the specific advice from someone here who has a 3.5L and knows the 3.5L areas of concern. I know the 3.0L fairly well, but not the 3.5L.



Yes, it's quite possible that a plug, plug wire or coil wire could be all that's wrong.

Frank

Check to make sure all the plug wires are tight on the plugs. Had one pop loose on my Accord once... it was drivable, but the loss of power and the sense of wrongness was definitely there. Are your belts properly tensioned? Any chance they might be slipping?

Good luck with it! <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />

Eric W.

4 hours in the shop later, I have a tentative diagnosis. One of the ignition coils tests faulty. That would make sense- the power loss was more than just one cylinder would account for, and each coil controls two cylinders. Makes sense to me. However, I still need to tear down further and find out what that ticking noise is, so there will be more shop time tomorrow. Any suggestions for locating the ticking?

Also, anyone out there have a GenII parts car that I can steal an ignition coil from? I would be MUCH obliged as I cannot afford a new coil at all. I'll gladly pay something reasonable for the used part, but I can't pony up the $100+ from the stealership.

Thanks for all your help!