Well, I'm helping my buddy rebuild the v6 in his 90 RS. We got the motor out tonight and this week I'll start disassembling and cleaning. It blew the head gasket and just started making a milk shake in the crankcase. It appears to have already had heads done on it and this is the same engine I fixed the harmonic balancer on (which is still holding solid!). Anyway, I'm doing a new crank (well rebuilt one since his crank snout is junked), bearing, oil pump, pistons, etc. I just thought I'd ask if anyone knows of any gotchas I should be on the look out for where the 3.0L is concerned. Any useful tips/advice would be appreciated. Oh and the torque converter came out with the engine, and I thought someone mentioned it being difficult to get fully seated. Is there any spec measurement one can do from the bell flange or something?

On a side note, whoever touched this thing before me was a real um, shady shade tree mechanic. Lot's of missing bolts, too long of bolts, etc. You know those huge gusset brackets that go from the engine to the bottom of the trans bell housing? yea, only one of the four bolts was there. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/zombie.gif" alt="" />

I'll post up some pictures when I can of the progress (though don't be expecting it to look like one of Franks engines! <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/scared.gif" alt="" /> ) My buddy is on a limited budget so this is strictly an as needed rebuild. I had put a new water pump/belt on when I did the crank pulley, and he'll need a new radiator now (his is leaking everywhere, which is probably why it over heated in the first place).

Good Luck... I plan on doing a rebuild on my 91 pretty soon. I hope you post a lot of pix, cause I'd like to see them! LOL <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" />

Just take a few weeks to read Frank's post & you should know more than the Mitsu engineers...

Ed

<img src="/forums/images/graemlins/lol.gif" alt="" /> Ain't that the truth!

TXRazor: I'll tell you this much, the middle two bellhousing bolts are tough! You can get all the lowers easy (infact, everything but those two bolts weren't any issue at all), the two top most bolts not too bad once the upper intake is off, but the middle two bolts...man, I had to leave those for last, lift the engine slightly, unbolt the motor mounts from the engine block, then lower the engine back down (until the front of the oil pan just rested on the front axle) to open up a gap between the bellhousing and the firewall. Then you can get both of those bolts from up top easy (standard 17mm wrench on the pass side, and a 3/8" ratchet with shallow 17mm socket and a pipe over the handle for the drivers one). In fact, leave the four top bell housing bolts for the lift-lower manuveur and you won't be cussing like a truck driver or snapping your universal joint into pieces. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/lol.gif" alt="" />

Todd -

The bottom end is straightforward, but:

1) Take a hard look at the decks for etching. Coolant over time etches the decks and too much can cause leaks and gasket sealing issues.

2) Total milling of the deck and head combined should not be more than .008". Head thickness OE spec is 3.310".

3) Watch the clamping range of the head bolts - use a bottoming tap and check for bolt length. You might need to grind some bolts to length to keep them from bottoming/binding.

4) Install a new timing belt tensioner and spring. Take care the locating pin on the oil pump is in the hole in the tensioner bracket.

5) I have my engine out and can measure the converter depth if you like, but remember that it engages 2 splined shafts... put some light pressure on the converter face and turn it - you'll feel both engagements. When it's fully seated, the engine will go flush to the bellhousing without pressure.

6) If you're dealing with a lockup torque converter, either grind the converter bolts .010" or so - or get new ones.... they stretch and can cause internal converter damage on the lockup units.

7) Use RTV between the cam towers and head when you assemble the valve train. Use RTV in the inside corners of the tower area when you install the valve covers.

8) Head bolt torque value should be 80 lb-ft.

9) Check the heads for warpage - also the lower intake manifold flanges.

10) Check the valve guides - the exhaust guides in particular have a habit of dropping.

11) Since the heads may have already been milled, be careful about thickness - see above wrt milling allowances.

12) To get initial oil pressure, either pre-pack the pump, prime with oil after installation and/or loosen the oil filter and apply light air pressure (4psi) to the valve cover while turning it over until oil gushes from the filter (messy, but it works).

Good luck,
Frank

The side bolts are very easy with the exhaust manifolds off - from the bottom is the easiest way to reach them.

Another way to reach the rear bolts is to unbolt the transmission mount and jack the rear of the transmission - which also tilts the engine forward for better access to the bellhousing bolts.

Frank

Haha... Thanks <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />

Well, got the torque converter back in last night, hood back on and truck pushed out of the garage. Cleaned up all the spilled ATF and got the engine mounted on the engine stand. Next will be disassembly and inspection.

For the torque converter, definitely tricky getting it seated all the way in and I measured about 1 1/16" - 1 1/8" from the bellhousing flange to the flywheel bolt pad for depth.

I just measured mine at 1 1/8" strong to 1 3/16". Push on it a some and it might go in a little more... but you're close enough for the engine to flush up to the bellhousing without pressure.

Frank

good luck with the build I followed a lot of Frank's instructions when I did mine and it all worked out. the big one is to make sure the bolt holes are cleaned to get the right clamping force...