i've got a cracked inner boot. i'm having trouble getting the driveaxle out. i've checked this link from the forum here. which says the same thing as mr. chilton and mr. haynes. it seems like the axle is too long to clear that area. it also seems like the outer boot & tulip won't fit through the stabilizer bar connector and shock.

any tips or tricks?

EDIT> don't know if it matters: '94 shortbox dlx. 22re

have you tried it yet?

yep.
i swear there's not enough room. i wouldn't post for help without getting dirty first.
-4wd hub is off.
-end snapring is off.
-inboard tulip is disconnected from sidegear. first problem here: tulip doesn't want to work down out of the a-arm hole. the end cap/ oil seal also popped off at this point.

boot was torn anyway, so i figured if i cut it off i could gain more manuevering room to get things apart. now i'm not able to get the outer boot over or thru the other hardwear enough to free up the shaft.

i've got an '89 too. it looks like there's just more room in that one.

You have a couple of options, one is to remove the upper ball joint and let the hub/Rotor move outwards(support if needed). The CV still wont slide right out, you will have to fight it even with the upper ball-joints removed. If you don't know the age/condition of the ball-joints(you shouldn't be able to move them by hand) you may want to go ahead and replace them now.

The other option is to knock out the studs(on axle flange), so you can drop the CV down and remove it. I find a second person using a pry bar between the the upper A-arm and bump stop and compressing the suspension helpful for removing the CV. You can either grind down the splines on the studs and use them as bolts, or replace them w/grade 8 bolts for the next CV removal.

You don't have to remove the axle to knock the bolts out, leave the CV on the studs, if you are going to try and reuse the studs put a nut on it and smack it with a hammer. You don't have to hit them real hard, they aren't really pressed in.

With either method the sway bar ends can get ion the way, so you may want to remove the bolt.

its probably time to do the ball joints. (this project started out as replacing a broken wheel stud, then turned into wheel bearings, then broken 4wd hub mounting bolts. why not do the ball joints while i'm at it? probably should plan on tie rods too)

already had a boot/flange stud knocked out - that helped.

sway bar connector bolt was rotten beyond recognition - broke it off (and added to the to-do list).

the a-arm prydown might help, and the balljoint removal sounds promising. you know, i did a little research before beginning this project, it sure sounded awfully easy.

i know i can get it out somehow, i'm a little concerned about getting it back in now.

thanks for your help!
j.

I can attest that unbolting the upper balljoint is a quick and easy removal method. I tore my inner boot trying to change out my ball joints because I was tired, hot and in a hurry. I didn't have any support under the hub when I unbolted and knocked out the upper joint and when it dropped, it pulled the entire shaft out of the inner housing. That made a lot of room in a hurry! <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/scared.gif" alt="" />

Yes the FSM(or Haynes/Chiltons) does make the CV replacement sound easy, but it isn't. I followed the FSM to the letter the first time I did one and I couldn't get it out their way either, after about an hour of trying it by the book I ended up removing the upper BJ.

If the BJ's are in need of repair it will be easier to just disassemble the entire wheel assembly(hang the caliper so you don't have to bleed the brakes), and remove everything else. Front end maintenance tends to be something most people don't do, or they only replace the items as needed. By rebuilding the whole thing you will be saving yourself a lot of extra labor, and when finished should be good for several years to come, other than repacking the bearings(depending on if it sees a lot of water or dusty roads).

W/my '91(that has ball-joint spacers), I am able to remove the CV by removing the bolts(axle flange and hub side, then having someone compress the suspension. I have to wiggle it back and forth, but it is a fairly easy R/R, a lot easier and less time consuming then dropping the upper ball-joint.

Before doing the tie-rod ends, has the truck had the steering relay rod recall done on it yet. If not, you could wait, some Toyota service centers replace the entire steering linkage(except pitman and idler arms) when doing the recall to save time, my local one doesn't. You will also get a free alignment w/the recall work. Your'89 should also be under the recall notice, as long as it is a truck and not a 4-Runner(IIRC).

woohoo free allignment!
i suppose i'll wait on the tie rods too. the ends look ok, but the sleeves are pretty orange and flakey. maybe they'll hook me up at the dealership.

'89 had the recall done just before i bought it. (2 months ago). bought it because the '94 took a tumble right before i was supposed to start work, and i didn't know what shape it was going to be in for working. its crinkled now, but runs great still. it will probably drive better with all the new front end lovin', its always been a little "wandery". i love that '89 though. everything works but the stereo. that's easy to resolve as long as i can keep up on the mechanical stuff. i never thought i'd be so stoked to have a tailgate that closes and opens with a click and not a slam. it's probably ready for wheel bearings... i guess i'm getting all the practice in with the other truck.

i'm learning to just take my time here and not rush things. when i rebuild the other side, i'll have a much better idea of what i'm getting in to. only bummer is it will be a week before i can get back to it.

cheers,
j.

I have a buddy that could change one out without even jacking it up. He had not removed the pressed in bolts on the stub shaft either. He would take the hub off and the snap ring go underneath take the nuts off. Wiggle it around and out it would come. Then he would put a new one in. Watched him do it on the trail in less then a half hour. How he did it I have no idea, maybe the 4" Pro-Crap lift helped.

if he's anywhere near roseville, he's probably around 3000miles too far away to lend a hand.

3000 miles + 4 inches too far away.

it'll take me a week to do this first one, next time i'll do it in 30 minutes!
j.