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 Re: removing front driveaxle
[Re: rolled]
#897614
07/28/08 05:17 AM
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Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 3,568
Roll Me Over
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i'm learning to just take my time here and not rush things. This is pretty much par for the course w/Toyota's, especially when you start working on the engine or interior. Toyota engineers like to put bolts, screw, and studs where you would least expect, where one or two might do the job, Toyota will add 3 more just to make sure it is solid. This is a great practice for durability/longevity, but a PITA when you are removing things. OOP's I have a buddy like that as well when it comes to front end/suspension work. I used to buy a 12pack and the parts, give him a call and before the beer was nice and cold to drink, the parts were already replaced. Unfortunately he now resides in Indianapolis, and what would take him 30 minutes takes me an hour. I haven't had to fool with the ones on my '90 w/3" lift yet, so I don't know if that makes much of a difference or not.
More than tread lightly. Leave it like you were never there, nor anyone else.
'90 X-cab 4.88's 33 BFG AT's, rr ARB, Headers, Ignition upgrade, cold air induction.
'91 X-cab 5.29's 315's BFG MT's, rr ARB, custom bumper and flatbed
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Re: removing front driveaxle
[Re: Snowtoy]
#897615
07/28/08 03:02 PM
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Joined: Apr 2000
Posts: 4,230
Roll Me Over
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i'm learning to just take my time here and not rush things. This is pretty much par for the course w/Toyota's, especially when you start working on the engine or interior. Toyota engineers like to put bolts, screw, and studs where you would least expect, where one or two might do the job, Toyota will add 3 more just to make sure it is solid. This is a great practice for durability/longevity, but a PITA when you are removing things. OOP's I have a buddy like that as well when it comes to front end/suspension work. I used to buy a 12pack and the parts, give him a call and before the beer was nice and cold to drink, the parts were already replaced. Unfortunately he now resides in Indianapolis, and what would take him 30 minutes takes me an hour. I haven't had to fool with the ones on my '90 w/3" lift yet, so I don't know if that makes much of a difference or not. The guy I know lives in Auburn and is in GV all the time. His name is Erik and he just built a 97 runner. He is also on this BB a lot. Right now he is on the Dusy/Ershim trail were I am supposed to be. But due to personel family issues I could not make the trip this year.
David Fritzsche
1990 Ex-Cab V-6,5-speed, with a few mods
04.5 CTD Dodge 2500 Ram--Tow Rig
Roseville, CA
"Serenity through Sobriety"
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Re: removing front driveaxle
[Re: rolled]
#897616
07/28/08 10:44 PM
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Joined: May 2008
Posts: 14
Need a Spot
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The trick that worked for me:
Compress the suspension by supporting the vehicle at the rear (jackstands at rear bumper or rear frame), then, raise the Lower Suspension Arm (I use my floorjack). Be Careful!
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Re: removing front driveaxle
[Re: Snowtoy]
#897617
07/29/08 12:41 AM
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Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 970
Rock Warrior
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X2 on going ahead and replacing the axle stub shaft studs w/ bolts.
It's amazing... that little 1" of clearance makes all te hdifference in the world. B/c i'd done this, last time I had to pull the axle, I didn't even take thr tire off.
Jujst be sure to use good Grade 8 bolts/nut. I actually use lock-nuts... but there isn't much space on the backside so they have to be low-profile.
Other major advantage to this trick is that if you ever have to drop the front differential assembly, it makesi t super-easy... just removet he 6 bolts from each side, unbolt the d/s, and loosen the 2 mounting bolts, lower her down...
With 200+ Billion electrical parts, the world most complicated machine is inside your own skull.
Question Reality.
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'89 Rnr DLX "SR4.5", 32s w/ 5.29 locked f/r blah blah
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Re: removing front driveaxle
[Re: OOP'S]
#897618
07/29/08 01:12 AM
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Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 3,568
Roll Me Over
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I figured it was ErikB, his '97 Runner has come along nicely.
A buddy of mine had a nice ex-o'd '96 that he traded for a Land Rove(on portal axles) just before Marlins Rubicon event last year. Pretty much the worst decision he made. He rolled the Rover last September(after the round-up), replaced the top section, and then rolled it twice over the 4th on Fordyce. The first roll was after the electric brake assist failed(no pump=no breaks), then again on winch hill 3 try to get back to Meadow. I think he has decided to build another Runner if he can figure out a way to keep it low w/the portals.
More than tread lightly. Leave it like you were never there, nor anyone else.
'90 X-cab 4.88's 33 BFG AT's, rr ARB, Headers, Ignition upgrade, cold air induction.
'91 X-cab 5.29's 315's BFG MT's, rr ARB, custom bumper and flatbed
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Re: removing front driveaxle
[Re: rolled]
#897619
07/29/08 04:12 AM
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Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 760
Rock Warrior
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I tried removing the bolts from the inner flange but it did not help. I have found that the easy way is to unbolt the lower ball joint and then pry down on the lower arm. Of course, I'm talking about a 95 4Runner so might be slightly different in your case.
Randy
1995 V6 SR5 5 speed 4X4 - 4Runner - dark blue
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Re: removing front driveaxle
[Re: rolled]
#897620
02/11/09 05:17 AM
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Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 15
OP
Need a Spot
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so, i'm back at this after getting slammed with work all summer, and getting slammed with snow.
finally in a garage instead of the sandy driveway.
update is: the fsm's diagram the procedure from the driver's side while i'm working on the passenger side... maybe there's more room over there? dropping a bj is the way to go for me, they were toast anyway.
question is: when wrestling with the axle before dropping any bj's, i knocked the end cap off the tulip. it is a little dented. i'm leary about joints like this, i don't want to have some deformation cause uneven wear on the tripod joint and have to go thru all of this again.
should i try to scrounge up a new/used tulip or end cap? or just try to massage the one i have back into shape?
Last edited by rolled; 02/11/09 05:23 AM.
rolled it on a snowbank. now i'm not afraid to scratch it. liberation.
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