Long story short, I am swapping in a Chevy v8 in my 88 4Runner. I removed the ECU and all the wiring associated with it. Just have a few wires running to the engine like oil/water temp sensors.

I hooked up the battery today to try and see if it would turn over. It seems as if I'm not getting any power to the fuse panel inside, I checked and no power to any of the fues. Hazzards work, headlights work. Nothing else on the interior works, and starter doesnt work. Body is grounded. Frame and engine are grounded. I checked all of the fusible links in the fuse box under the hood and they all had continuity and no damage. I have the one positive wire going from the fuse box under the hood to the battery positive, and there is a white wire coming out of the fuse box that is grounded to the body. Continuity to the negative cable was verified for the fuse box ground.

What supplies power to the ignition and accesories inside the truck, and the fuse panel inside?

HELP! I cut a whole mess of wires in the harnes, I must have cut something I shouldnt have, like a ground or something. Just need to figure out what it is and hook it back up!

Adam. Alright. If I'm not seriously mistaken, your fuse panel and all of your acc. should be energized from the switch. My advice is to go get a Haynes repair manual for your vehicle and use the wiring diagrams in it. There might be a better one on the market, but that's the one I use. There are all sorts of wiring diagrams in it and with a little time you can figure out the whole vehicle. I'm sorry but I don't know which wire is the problem right off the top of my head, but I will say this: If you aren't getting power to the switch, start there. I would think that there is a relay activated by the switch which powers everything. I don't know that for a fact, but it makes good sense. I can tell you this though, the relays above your brake and clutch pedal assembly should be for the head-lights so there is one thing eliminated. Good luck man. I hope this helps a little.

THanks guys.

I've used that diagram and the FSM diagrams, and I'm still scratching my head. It shows a few fusible links give power to everything, but I've tested them all and they all tested good. I'll have to dig into it more tonight.

that large white wire from the fuse box is the power supply not a ground , I know it is on my 5V-zfe anyway ..

Right. I have that hooked up to the battery + terminal. There is also a small white/black stripe wire(s) that is grounded to the body.

Looks like I'm going to have to remove the interior fuse panel and run my own 12v to it. Hopefully that will power the ignition switch as well.

FSM wiring diagram says the AM1 fuseable link should supply power to the AM1 terminal on the ignition switch. For whatever reason, the AM1 terminal on the ignition switch is not getting power. I have power in and out of the AM1 fuseable link in the fuse box under the hood, verified with a multimeter. So I ran a jumper from battery + to the AM1 terminal on the ignition switch (which, by the way, takes all but 5 minutes with a phillips and flat head screwdriver to start the truck without a key <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/angry.gif" alt="" /> ) and I now have power to lights in the cab and the ignition switch.

And, the part that makes me really happy, is the starter turns the motor over, using the stock starter relay. A few people told me it wouldnt work, that I'd need to use an old school chevy starter solenoid. I knew it would though!

Cranked it over for about 20 seconds until the battery died! <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/lol.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif" alt="" /> I'll charge it up tomorrow and see if I can make some noise!

Ver' cool Adam. I wonder if you snagged the wire when you took the core support out (if this is the same rig).

Yep, same rig. I'm sure I cut it. I cut ALL wires and connectors I'm not going to need for the carb. It probably was connected to something else and got cut.

Oh well, I'll run a new positive cable with a fuse to be safe.