OK, we can assume that the head is OK.

Now, we have to talk about your procedures. Over the course of this thread, you have posted some questionable mechanical actions. :-)

One, how did you do the compression test? Refer to HERE for the right way to do it.

I don't know how much WD-40 you put in the cylinders, but to get it to jump up to 200psi, you put in too much. Besides, WD-40 is not the correct thing to use. Use oil next time.

And, the loosening and re-tightening of the head bolts you mentioned may be a problem too. That is not a good thing to do. It can mess with the head gasket and it might cause the head to not re-seal properly.

Can the block crack? Yes. But, you most likely would have seen anti-freeze in a cylinder. The contamination you saw in the oil was probably from the cracked head and failed head gasket from head #1.

So...at this point in time, I would suggest you take the head you have and install it with a new head gasket. I would suggest making sure to chase and flush out the head bolt holes in the block. An air compressor works, but canned air and lots of brake cleaner will work too. Ideally, you would also chase the threads with a real tap.

It is important to also to torque the head bolts in the proper order. And, you need to get the timing as close as possible to where it should be AND the valves need to be properly adjusted. You will need a new/fully-charged battery too.

After all of that is done, then check the compression. Doing all of this will put you out only the cost of a head gasket and some more of your time.

If the compression numbers don't look good, then junk it. You can't machine or test the block in the truck. Although, as I said above, I doubt it is cracked as at least one cylinder would look bad because it would have to crack into a water jacket and you would have seen AF pooling in that hole.

Good luck,
Michael

Hi,

I have checked the compression multiple times. I have done this with 2 "new" head gaskets. I chased out the threads. I even blew out the bolt holes with compressed air. I even got a new set of head bolts. I did the compression test with a fully charged battery and I followed the procedures that you cited. I was advised to check the compression with the oil down the cylinder after getting the low numbers. That is how I got the one high number that one time.

The retourqing of the head bolts was done on the original cylinder head(head #1). I suspect that is what killed the head gasket originally.

The current cylinder head(head#2) was used to get the current compression numbers. The compression was checked with 2 different "new" head gaskets with the current head(head#2). I even got new head bolts with the second head gasket to check the compression numbers.

The cylinder head bolts were torqued in 2 steps as shown in the shop manual in the proper sequence. The timing was correct and the valves were adjusted to correct specs. .06 intake and .10 exhaust.

If the block is not likely to be cracked what else would cause this low compression in the bottom end?????

Thanks


Mike

.06 and .10 or .006 and.010?

Valve clearances should be .010/.010 or .010/.012 I/E.

.006 is too tight. It might affect compression. Especially if the timing was not quite right.

So, while what you are describing really is starting to point towards the block, I would still give it another try. Worst case, the block is the problem and you have to get rid of it. Unless you are willing to pull the block, you are not going to be able to fix it.

Good Luck,
Michael

Hi,

.006 intake and .010 exhaust are the specs for the valves. I looked at my factory shop manual last night and that is what it calls for. I have the 2.3l engine in this trooper. It is not a matter of me not being willing to pull the engine out. I am working outside in my driveway. I don't have the tools to pull the engine nor the space to store and work on the engine out of the vehicle. To have any engine work done with the engine out of the vehicle I would need to get the trooper towed to a garage to have them do the work. I don't have that kind of money right now.

This is why I posted here to get some help and insight as to what is wrong with my truck. I am familiar with this engine and this vehicle. I have had several troopers over the years. This problem has me puzzled. It is beyond my knowledge. That is why I posted here thinking that if I posted the symptoms what it might right a bell with someone here.

I never came here with the intention of irritating people. I was just asking for help with something that was beyond me. The reason that I am not always working on the truck is that I am at the mercy of the weather and my jobs. I have never put anyone down here and I have always tried to treat people here with respect.


Thanks

Mike

I am not quite sure why you feel so offended, but I can assure you that you have no reason to be so.

The bottom line here is you have been working on this truck for over 2 years. It is about where you were when you started. For whatever reason, you have some limitations on what you can do. Fine, we can live with those, but it means the diagnosis and final outcome is also limited.

#1, You have a head that appears, for all intents and purposes, to be fine.

#2, You are unable or unwilling to pull the block and get it tested. Unwilling only because in the course of 2 years, it could have been removed either with a rented/borrowed/stolen hoist or with a couple of big strong friends. Regardless, you could get that block out and to a machine shop if you had to. Finances not withstanding.

#3, You have put this thing back together in a few different configurations (new head bolts, gaskets, heads ect), but it still has a serious compression problem.

ergo, without further diagnostics on the block it could be assumed it is the source of your problems.

So, you can try one more time (at the cost of your time and another head gasket) to put it back together. You could visually inspect the block again to see if you can identify a problem. You could get a machinist's straightedge and see if the deck is warped. Although I would hazard the guess that if the block was cracked or the rings were an issue, you would only see compression problems in one hole. And these blocks just don't crack very often.

That said, that is why I keep asking about HOW you are doing things. I am not there and no matter how hard I squint, I can't see through your computer. Clean up the block, make sure the bolt holes are clean, throw on a new gasket and carefully bolt that head back on. Put the rest of it together, time it and see what you get.

It is either going to be OK, or not. If it is not, you exactly where you are right now; scrap it or tow it. At least all the parts will be with it if it has to go. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />

Good Luck,
Michael

I am coming in on this late, and may have missed something. I did just install a used 2.3 in my wife's Isuzu pup. I got terrible compression readings and freaked. I had spent $1200 plus on the engine. I called the company, they said the engine had sat for years, and I ought to just try starting it. I did and it started on the first try, and purred like a kitten. The reasoning the tech suggested was the rings were stuck and would loosen up after firing.
So here is my question, aside from the symptoms, have you tried to start the engine?