What vacuum lines are absolutely neccesary for a 1985 toyota 4x4 with a 22r engine? I live in NC and the veh does not have to pass emmisons inspection anylonger.

well im going thru the same boat as you mate but im in a lil warmer state <az>.ill eb watchin for replies if i find anything ill link ya

Skerb's 22r carb FAQ

http://www.bluebassdesign.com/boonin/carb_faq/

FYI, EB is not a carbie guy; he's our machinist extraordinaire. Scerb's site is a very good reference.

If you have the HAC valve on the pax fender, you can get rid of that, as it's optional for altitude driving. Don't toss the valve tho'-- they're around $100 new..

[img][image]http://i176.photobucket.com/albums/w185/Yota99714/20R%2022R%20Carb%20Reference/22R_vacuum_Fed_CA.jpg[/img][/image]

The only line you NEED is the vac advance line. AAP, choke opener, choke breaker are all easy enough to keep and nice to have.

I'd like to add to the need list manifold vacuum to the rear port on the distributor vacuum advance. just any port on the manifold below the carb should work.

I've found that this really helps with driveability.

what port are you talking about? There are two on the distributer - vac advance and vac retard.

I'm talking about the rear port on the vac. advance, and actually, both ports are for advance; contrary to popular belief, there is no retard control on this Toyota distributor. I struggled for years trying to get this sorted for a Weber install <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" /> Once I learned more about the ignition timing, things started falling into place.

I need to work on a Weber writeup to complement your Toyota carb documentation; good stuff you've compiled there.



lower diagram illustrates the different vacuum signals for each port on the distributor.

ported vacuum = any port on the carb above the throttle plates
manifold vacuum = anything port below the throttle plates