Remove truck ? really??? <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/zombie.gif" alt="" />

<img src="/forums/images/graemlins/lol.gif" alt="" /> I thought that was just for the 3.0 starter <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />

Really. Seems easier than all that other stuff they were talking about. (Note: Removing truck may involve hand tools and some assembly required)

On my 87 I was able to get it out the top, but there was only one way it would work. Read here for details:
Alternator Removal

Andy, Thanks for posting link to that old forum thread. Good info. On my 87 4Runner (starting this thread) I tried in every possible way to get it out from the top but couldn't get it out. I am curious now to see when I have to do it next time (yes, I hope to run this truck forever)if I can find the magic orientation to get it out the top.

wow...theres actually one situation where its easier to work on a 3vz than it is a 22re! <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/lol.gif" alt="" />

ok, i've just spent all afternoon rolling in the snow trying to get the alternator out...It's out from its mounts, but I gave up on actually taking it out from the truck. (w/o removing anything else)

Deciding that i'm just going to change the brush-holder w/ the alternator still lodged in, I managed to remove the cover & 1 of the 2 screws of the brush holder. The other is stripped! I just can't figure out what to do now!!! <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/angry.gif" alt="" />
Can wd-40, warmth, heat help despite the electronic-looking things all around it?

FYI: The alternator completely died 2 wks ago with no warning lights. It's been sitting since. Today I hooked up an ammeter & voltmeter to alternator prior removal & started the engine & got around 10-11amp & 14.7V with all lights/heater at around 2000amp. (Am I supposed to get at least 30amp btw as mentioned in FSM?)

I'd just pull one end of the lower hose (I did the rad end) and get that thing inside... although looking at your pics, you seem to like the cold Once it's inside and accessible you have many attack options to get it out. When you say the screw is stripped, you mean the head, correct? how 'bout small nosed pliers or small nose vise-grip? I have had success cutting a slot with a small cutoff wheel in a dremel. A drop of Kroil sitting overnight can't hurt either...To me a gallon or two of coolant is worth getting the dang thing inside out of the cold...but that's just me, I'd rather sweat than freeze.

hehe, i cant say i dont! it's -13c outside...lol. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/shiner.gif" alt="" />

I got myself a crappy-tire screw extractor, hopefully that will do the job today...

according to your lastest post it sounds like there is nothing wrong with your alt. Yes you should get 30 amps if your bat is dead and you have everything turned on. The alt will only put out what it needs i.e. if your bat is fully charged and you have nothing on you will see a virtually a 0 amp draw. Just like charging a battery with 110v charger. A dead battery will draw max amps but as it charges the amps will lower until the bat is full and the amps will be zero.