In order to correct the vibes you shoud do:

1. If your Mitsu has coil springs on rear.. you should better install some shims on the tranny support in order to lower a little bit the transfer. or.....

2. If you have leaf springs you can putl some shimms on the bed of the differential and the leaves with some degrees in order to correct the angle.

JorgeA

Cranking the front tbars wont' do anything for your vibrations. It will only move your A-Arms down more, not dealing anythign with U-Joints in begin with. Thats why when cranking the tbars, you don't need to worry about U-Joint angles, you are dealing with CV Joints.

You have to fix that rear angles so they match up. JorgeA listed two ways to do that. If you dont' understand, I can post generic pictures to show you visually.

The coil spring rear has trailing arms. When you lower the rear axle in relationship to the frame (a rear lift) or most any kind, you rotate the nose of the rear diff up, which changes the rear ujoint angle. You can correct this the hard way by cutting off the trailing arm mounts and spring perches and reweld them with the axle at the proper angle, or the easy rednek way, by ovalling out one of the trailing arm mount bolt holes on the axle so you can rotate the axle on the trailing arm, pivoting on the other bolt hole, until the pinion is again at the right angle. I'd then weld on a pair of washers to the trailing arm mount to "lock" in the new angle. Or you could install CV joints in the driveshaft in place of the non constant velocity ujoints...

I was figuring since the front of the Raider is nosed down, that raising the front up would reduce the angle slightly. But yea, Visuals on how to install those shims would be greatly appreciated. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" />

Another thing to check is if the joints have run out of angle during there rotation. Mine did this when I went a bit to high.
The angle shims will relieve the issue a bit.

When you lift the front, you rotate the truck around the centerline of the rear wheel, + a minor weight transfer to the rear which will lower it an insignificant amount. This will not affect the angle of the pinion shaft with the tcase output shaft.

Optimally, you want the two shafts to be on the same axis. If you can't get that, you want them to be parallel and stay that way when the rear suspension cycles up/down.

On a leaf spring suspension, there's a flat plate on the axle (the perch) that's held flat on the spring pack with ubolts. A shim is like an acute wedge on a 1, 2, 3, etc. degree angle. If you want to tilt the pinion shaft down, you put the fat of the wedge to the rear, placed between the spring perch plate on the axle and the spring pack. This tilts the spring perch forward and the pinion down.

Using a longer rear shackle to lift the rear of a leafer tilts the pinion up as you lower only the rear end of the spring. To fix this, you use a shim installed as above. You can buy a cheap angle finder or a 'lectronic level with an angle display to check tcase output and pinion shaft angles to figure what kind of shim(s) you need.

So on leaf sprung vehicles you can shim the axle, but on the coil sprung rear you have to shim the Tcase? for all this trouble I should just throw the factory springs back in. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif" alt="" />

Shimming the coil spring will have no effect on the pinion angle. As Eddy said, you have to either shorten the trailing arm to raise or lengthen to the trailing arm to lower the pinion angle. It's not that difficult to do the ovalling that he's talking about. I've got to do it on mine because of a vibe @ 65mph. I've got new joints, but they do it too. Not as severe as before, but it's only a matter of time before they get worse... Just gotta find the time <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/rolleyes.gif" alt="" />

If you shim the tacase down to make tha angles match, you'll have to drop it more than you did the axle, since the lever arm length is longer (length of trailing arm vs. distance from front motor mounts to tcase mount), and I think it would wipe out any gain you got with the rear lift by dropping the tcase into the path of the gnarlies...

The axle trailing arm mount is fairly thin metal and a die grinder should oval out the holes pretty easy and quick.

I still wanna know if you changed your ujoints yet?? You guys are pumping his head full of all this stuff bout shims good tech yes it is, BUT he still hasn't changed out his uni's. If you have the uni's changed at a driveshaft shop they will also balance the shaft for you.