Need to change the cv axles on my wifes '97 Mazda Protege. When we did the shafts on my friends saturn the diff fluid leaked out when one of the shafts was pulled (can't remember which side). Does the mazda do the same thing?

And are there any tips or tricks that anyone cares to share...maybe a certain tool I might need, or will make things easier?

Thanks
brandon

all front wheel drives will leak when you pull the cv. jack it up on that side so the fluid cant run out. use a prybar to get the axle out.

So do it one side at a time? Thanks for the info. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" />

If your worried about loosing fluid, yes. Otherwise, do them both and let it run out, and refill it later.

Prior to pulling the shafts, make sure the output seals aren't leaking. If they are, now's the time to replace them. IIRC, taking the strut loose from the knuckle allows enough swing to get the axle out of the hub. You shouldn't have to take the balljoint or the tie rod loose, I think... Also, make sure the new axle has a good clip on the end. I've see reman axles with old clips before, that's just asking for trouble. If there's any doubt about it, pick new ones up from the dealer. Shouldn't be but a couple bucks apiece, at the most. As far as quality of parts goes, be sure to get a price on a new axle. Many times they're not much more than a reman and the quality is alot better. My .02 <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />

Usually I have to remove the bottom ball joint, but leave the tie rod end and upper ball joint attached. That will allow me to swing the whole knuckle out of the way to pull the shaft through.

I was thinking the nut for the lower ball joint was pretty hard to get to, like in between the lower control arm and the joint itself. And this car doesn't have upper ball joints, the strut attaches directly to the knuckle.

I see. Autozone.com has a free repair manual online thats pretty good. Check it out.