yes everything should be in the kit...one problem me and 2 friends had with there webers was mounting the throttle cable, there is no real nice reliable way of doing it with the materials they supply. I had made my own metal bracket that mounted on the intake manifold studs to secure it.

the kit is all you need.

Sorted!

Many thanks for everyone's help.

Not too worried about a little small-parts fabrication, I enjoy figuring those angles out.

One other item you may want to consider is a fuel pressure regulator if you intend to continue to use the mechanical fuel pump.

My regulator came set at 3.5 PSI and I left it at that setting. Some members here may suggest converting to electric pump but I went with the regulator on the mechanical pump without any issues.

Also used the Redline Weber kit for a 32/32 and have had no carb issues since.

I made the conversion from the "Carb From Hell" to the 32/36 DGEV and am glad I did. Here's some tips: Trying to get the throttle cable thru the trunnion was a pain. I replaced it with a stainless 1/4" bolt and lock nuts then drilled out the bolt and the plate on the carb with a big enough hole to except the cable.

I was able to adapt the stock air cleaner to the Weber to take advantage of the exhaust heat, but it was a fairly big deal.

I had some tuning issues until I replaced the stock main jet (#60 which I believe is .6mm) to #70) and the secondary jet to #65, but it all depends on your altitude and how much emissions crap your local gas contains.

I also had some flooding issues with the stock mechanical pump. After a lot of experimenting I was able to get it running good by putting a mechanical regulator on the RETURN line to the tank and set it at 1-1/2psi.

In the process of putting on a new Clearwater head I found that the adapter plate had loosened. I took the whole unit off and used high strength threadlocker. I also found that the adapters did not line up with the gaskets and carb very well so I used a die grinder with a high speed bit and cleaned up the whole works so the fuel/air flow looks much better.

I recently blew #4 exhaust valve which resulted in cracking the exhaust manifold on the runner from #4 cylinder. I took off the exhaust shroud to monitor the patch job I did and went back to the little air filter that comes with the Weber kit. The clips that hold the Weber air filter can be made to fit better if you grind the lower clips way back. So far it's running OK without the exhaust heat (it's -2 right now) but it definitely runs better cold with the stock filter set up.

If I can help let me know.

Ok - jetting.

I've found some info from Redline here

Redline Weber

which has an interesting inclusion ...



which would explain some of the problems I've had.
But enough of Mikuni.

I'm without a clue about which jets to use/get for the Weber.

I live and travel at around sea level to 1500ft, with a humidity level that's almost always well above 90%, and a temperature range of 17c minimum to 45 max (in shade).

Any ideas?

And again, thanks for the help and help offers.

Sorry about the delay...had something going on here. My suggestion would be to try the jets that come with the carb and see how it performs. If you have issues then consider re-jetting. Weber has jetting kits that contain all sorts of parts to play with the mixture. I decided to just replace the main and secondary jets first before going any further. I bought the individual jets from some other place...they're cheap.

The main thing you need to remember is the idle screw cannot be turned in more than 1-1/2 turns. If it is it will throw off everything. If you follow Weber's tuning tips closely you should be OK. If you Google Weber carb tuning you'll find a lot of good info. These carbs are very popular in Europe.

One drawback that I've found is you'll lose your dashpot which kicks up your idle when the air conditioner compressor kicks on and if your idle is low it may run rough, especially with the lights on.

Try to keep your idle at or below 900rpms as it may want to run-on when you shut down. If it still does richen up your mixture a little bit (turn the mixture screw out an eighth of a turn at a time and then test drive). I keep a small screwdriver handy and am still putzing with the settings, but it's never run better.

Also get your ignition systems as good as it can be before the swap, along with any possible vacuum leaks. You'll get rid of a whole box full of vacuum lines, just make sure all of the lines from the vacuum manifold are plugged tightly.

And, after pulling off the whole works I noticed that the coolant hole under the carb (your Mikuni has coolant circulating through it) was leaking into the manifold. Use a high temp RTV sealant around the bottom and top of the carb to manifold gasket at the coolant hole. I also used a large flat file and worked the flat surfaces of the adapters before reassembling. So far so good. It starts instantly at below zero (f).

One last thing. The fast idle screw was set way too high from the factory. Make note of its location in case you want to turn the fast idle down, it can be a little hard to reach after the carb is installed. Let us know how it goes.

Saw your post about the custom bracket you made for the accelerator cable. I need to do that myself. It would be great if you would post a photo!
Thanks!