That's cool... Its a good suggestion that I think will help.

i think what probably happens is you're removing all the loose residual oxidized copper so the contacts have more surface area in 'contact' with the other connector.

But what do I know... <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" /> I didn't stay at a Holiday Inn Express last night <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/lol.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/lol.gif" alt="" />

Seriously, if anyone can shed any more light on this please do... cause now the curiousity is piqued. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />

I had a no spark issue on my 89 V6 Raider. My distributor has a photo optic sensing unit in it. As this thing spins it tells the ECU where the distributor is at and when to fire. The ECU sends a signal up to the power unit (transistor unit mounted next to the coil) and this creates the ground path for the coil voltage causing current to flow through the coil, creating the spark. I bought the cheap spark tester from Napa and it was easy to see when I had spark and no spark. Long story short and alot of work, I found that I had a bad Power unit and a bad photo optic sensing unit. The wires coming from the photo optic sensing unit go through a connector at the fire wall up by the heater hoses. I was able to put an oscilliscope on the wires here and see that there was no signal coming from my distributor.
Hope this helps.
Joe

That is what I was talking about. It happened to me too. I also had that stupid black box next to the coil go out at a different time. I had another truck to mix and match parts with to find out the problem.

im not too technical, putting a new dizzy in would require me to do the timing right?

Yes. It also requires you to "stab" the distributor into the engine with the rotor at the correct position so that as it seats itself the rotor ends up in the right position. It meshes with another spiral-cut gear as it is pushed in, so the rotor turns when it is either taken out or put back in. If you were to take the old one out, it would be important to note where the rotor is exactly, both in the seated distributor position and just as the gears disengage when withdrawing it. Sharpie markers can help.

It also helps to have the engine at top dead center in case you screw that first part up. Then you have to sort of play around with it so that the rotor is pointing to where the #1 cylinder's spark plug wire connects to the distributor cap. Don't ask how I know that...

John B.

Before I replaced the dizzy I would try just replacing the Photo Optic Sensing unit. If you have a junk yard around you could try to find one there otherwise Rock Auto sells them for 109.00. be careful there are a couple of different designs. There is one with the connector coming off of the side and one that has the connector coming off of the bottom. It is about a 5 minute job to replace the Photo Optic Sensing unit compared to replacing the whole distributor.
Joe

I took a bunch of modules out of 3.0s in Hyundai, Chrys, Diamante , etc. Just to compare the modules. I'm still quite interested in the 90-94 module as I haven't seen one,,,
,,,i.e. I want the numbers molder on it.,,,,,
The 89 module used to be available in B/A, not anymore.
The module was also used in 88 sigma, 89 Sonata, Some early Diamante. It has the number 013 on the module and on the disc.
Caravans has 011 and 010.
I'd like to know what you have?????
I'd be real carfull in a new module or new / rebuilt distrib. , Make extra sure you not sent a genaric # that might blow the ECU.

Also , no code shows when there is corrosion in the MPI Relay , Mine was green unside and did all kinds of wierd things that were untracable . Bend the tabs and take of the can and see if they are corroded.

You can get a used one off any Japanese vehicle with the SOHC 12 valve 3.0
Good luck , I hope its you relay <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />

ive cleaned the corrosion, i'll look at the relay for the ecu....
as for the dizzy's crank angle sensor... unless i can find it online im screwed.
i live in the land of ford and chevy's with a few dodges sprinkled in.... a few mitsu's around but theyre the first or second gen eclipses

I wish I was closer to give you a hand with that. From what happened with my Raider, I had to replace the entire distributor before it would spark again. I also grabbed a multimeter and checked for shorts or ground outs. It would also probably help to use dielectric grease on all your connections to keep them from corroding again.

I looked in my old B/A "telephone book" , and they list the 89 rebuilt and 90-94 rebuilt. It's stupid that they only sell rebuilts cause the distrib body would never wear out. The Formerly Kragen Auto parts has the rebuilt available. Cardone brand i think. Try RockAuto.com. Napa could get the module for mine , but a whole dizzy was only like 30 buck more.

On the relay , under the passenger side kick board,,,it's just 2 electro manget switches. I go a newer one off a diamante last time I was in the yard. I took the can off and part silicone around the endge. That keeps snow out of the relay off my passengers giant boots.