I have been back at the CJ trying to finish it up before I start on the Vette and push it to the side. I have waaay to much money tied up in the CJ to abandon it.

My question is about the brake system which was the last thing that P**sed me off and I stopped working on it til I was ready again.

1) Is there different pedal assemblies for standard and power brakes or are they all the same?

2) I know there are different master cylinders so are the push rods from the pedal assembly to the master cylinder different also?

Symptoms: I cannot get my rear brakes to bleed so I am thinking maybe the master cylinder is not being pushed far enough to allow the fluid to enter the rear system. This may be because the pedal assembly is configured differently or the push rod is shorter. As it is now, when everything is hooked up, the brake pedal is only a couple inches off the floor which looks wrong to me. I am thinking it should be 4 or 5 inches up, closer to the clutch pedal.

I would like to at least know which way to proceed before it makes me mad again and I quit working on it for another couple of months. Any input here? Anybody have a power brake push rod out and handy to take a length measurement?

Anybody want to buy $15K worth of parts almost assembled for about $6K??? LOL. It isnt that bad yet but after 4 years I am ready for this thing to quit p***ing me off!
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The brake and clutch pedals should be the same height.. Do you have the inside spring on the brake pedal to pull it to it's normal height?
As for bleeding By FAR the best way is to place a vacuume on the far end of the system and PULL the fluid thru the lines.
I am not aware of the rods into the master cylinder... as far as I know they are one and the same. Others may have experience with these.
Big Jim <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/pfft.gif" alt="" />

The push rods are different, since the manual one is designed to push on the master cylinder, and the power one is designed to push on the vacuum booster, which are different distances from the pedal mechanism.

I agree with BJ's suggestion to insure that the return spring is hooked up to the pedal mechanism.

I checked the pedal assembly and the spring is in place. After looking at the brake pedal in reference to the gas, they are pretty much equal but the clutch is waaay up there. So it seems the problem is with the rod, the proportioning valve or the master cylinder itself. I guess the next step is to try and pull the fluid thru as Jim has suggested. Y'all know where I can get a self bleeder of this type for less than $80? I guess I could get a long piece of vacuum hose and attach it to a port and the bleeder. Anybody ever done this? Thanks for the comments guys!

I'm guessing the HAND PUMP vac systems are 20 bucks or less at the parts house. Easy to use and will last for nearly EVER in your shop.
From looking at the pedals I think I would take the booster off of the firewall and see if the pedals line up when it is off. I'm betting there is a problem with the setup..
Big JIm <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/pfft.gif" alt="" />