So it appears the leaking rear main combined with my bagging the truck across the prairie to impress my red-neck cousins finally did in my clutch (they did approve of the vehicle though). The clutch is starting to slip in higher gears when there is extreme load on the engine (i.e. the 14 ST hill).

It is still very drive-able so I'm hoping I just glazed it a bit and a few weeks of ginger driving will result in Betsy IV fixing herself... but I have a feeling I'm in for a hefty parts bill. I've searched high and low, but found no parts listing on the Wire. Soo... CAPS it is. Can anyone confirm the following:

Clutch, MB837230 superceded by MR176525
Clutch Cover, MB837231
Release Bearing, MR195689
Pilot Bearing, Co listing (is there one?)
Rear Main, MD069947
Gasket to hold in rear main, MD199394 superceded by MD183244

Now... From what I can gather, most Pajeros have a dual mass fly wheel. These obviously can't be re-surfaced and since mine has been exposed to oil, I'm assuming it's cooked... or at least heavily glazed. Does anyone know how to tell if it is dual mass without taking it apart? Is there a non-dual mass fly wheel I can use instead, such as the one from the 2.3L?

I also phoned Rocky Mountain Importers. The quoted me $375 for a disc and cover, plus $25 for the rear main. A kit that come with the fly wheel was $1250 (eep), I need to confirm, but I'm assuming this also includes all associated bearings.

Any thoughts or suggestions? Anyone have a spare flywheel laying around?

Tomorrow I will phone Mitsu and get prices on Genuine Mitsubishi parts, but I have a feeling it might get pricey fast.

The funny thing is, I drove the truck for a couple hours up and down the hills of the Red Deer river (the horizon line had us a 40 degrees at steepest point up hill) and the clutch didn't slip once. I drove all the way home... no problems. I put on 50 more KM yesterday around town... no problems. Then today it starts slipping when I'm, driving to Home Depot? Weird.

Maurie

Awwww crap... that sucks. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif" alt="" />

Here are some more places to check... I've used both of these guys. Mardy (Amazing AI) is very helpful:

amazing imports
Maximum Overdrive

I haven't used these guys, but just another option:
enviroimports

I though the dual mass flywheels were only in the 3.2 liter diesels...... I think ours is a regular unit.

I ran my Chasis number through CAPS and there are two parts listings, but I couldn't tell which was which.

I spoke to John at Rocky Mountian Imports. He's sold a couple clutches to people and it is his experience that the Shorties typically have the dual mass. He ran my code as well and from he what could tell it is dual mass. Ultimatly I won't know until a pull the whole thing apart.

Rocky has brought in a kit that has a machined fly wheel and a Exedy clutch (with all the bearings). This is the first time he's brought it in so I'll be the first one of his customers to do it. It is a kit he's ordered from Austrialia and I know that the Aussies have allot of experience with our trucks. The nice thing about this kit is that it is a single mass fly wheel so I will be able to do future clutch replacements on this fly wheel.

If it turns out I have a single mass fly wheel then Jon will take the one he is shipping me back. I have to pay the shipping but I figure that it is a pretty reasonable offer none the less.

My thought is that I'm borrowing garage space to do this and I want all the parts there so I can get out of the borrowed garage as soon as possible.

I'll let people know how the install goes.

Looks like I'll have parts for the clutch by the weekend... now the fun part, putting it in. Does this make sense?

From looking under the truck I figure getting the tranmission/T case out is relitivly simple, although allot of heavy lifting.

From what I can tell:

I'll need to drain the T-case and remove the front and rear drive shafts.

Remove the front cross memeber.

Remove the shift boot etc. from inside the truck

Unbolt everything

Unhook speedo cable, a couple wiring harnesses

Suppoport the tranny/t-case and slide it backwords

Is there anything I'm missing here? Does anyone know of any land mines I need to watch out for?

Thanks for any help

Maurie

Dont forget the clutch slave cylinder. Now is a good time to drain all the fluid and replace with new.

I may be able to come down and give you a hand maurie, depending on which day. it is probably best to take the t-case and tranny out individually, together they will be one heavy biotch. I would almost order a oil-pan gasket too...I know like most mitsubishis, once you take the rear main seal carrier out, it is tough to get it to seal again without changing the whole gasket. I got lucky on my old 4G63 colt.

you can always try and and change the oil-pan gasket later if it leaks, its not too big of a job, just messy.

let me know if you need a hand!!

I wouldn't separate the case. Its heavy, but its all bad enough cracking the bellhousing bolts - to add the t-case to the list when it will come along voluntarily with the trans is adding extra work, IMHO.

I did the clutch on BII in my old garage with minimum tools/know-how, by myself. Didn't pull the tcase, and it was manageable, with a tranny jack.

Did you come up with a clutch alignment tool? After cracking the bellhousing bolts, getting the assembly to mate up was the hardest part, when I did it.

most clutch kits come with an alignment tool, all mine have....if not I have a universal alignment tool with all sorts of different sizes. I've even eye-balled it and with some gental persuasion it worked

Well... The disassemble starts in about an hour.

I almost forgot the clutch slave. That's a good point. They are easy to bleed so I might as well do it.

I also realized that I'm going to have some levers in the way, so possibly the gear shift and 4x4 lever will have to come out.

I'm considering on-hooking the drive shafts from the axles then sliding the whole assembly straight back. This way I don't have to worry about draining the t case and re-filling it. If I can get six inches between the housing and the block I should have enough room to break the bolts lose on the clutch then fly wheel to get it out.

I'll keep you guys updated.

Maurie