Hi Folks, Long time member, but read far more than post, but the time has come for some sorely needed help!

I have been experiencing intermittent starting issues in my 88 Runner, 22RE-EFI, auto. I initially replaced the starter as the solenoid was clicking but not sending the pinion to the flywheel. This "cured" the problem for about two weeks and it started again. I replaced the positive cable, still intermittently clicking and not starting at all. Alternator is perfect on the voltmeter checks. The battery was 12.2v static, and 14.3 when the truck is running. Took the starter back out, had it tested which was good, but it sounded rough so they honored a warranty and gave me another. Still clicking intermittently...

I decided to take the battery out and get it tested up at a shop, one machine said it was fine, another machine said it was bad. Three year old battery, what the heck I replaced it and the negative cable as well. I thought maybe some unseen corrosion might be the gremlin. Still clicking...

Checked the neutral start switch- reverse lights come on, only starts in neutral or park. Checked the #50 push on terminal voltage coming from the ignition switch to the solenoid on the starter- 12.6V so it shows good, Bentley says anything over 9V is fine. Still clicking...

Traced wires best as I could looking for open circuits and have not found any. Thinking about opening the steering column and looking at the wiring there. Any suggestions are highly appreciated, I have exhausted all that I know to do!!
Jeff in FL

See below for a simple troubleshooting test:
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/Starter.shtml#EasyTest

And see if you can get your old starter back and fix it, you'll be better off in the long run:
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/Starter.shtml#RepairVsReplace

Thanks for the reply, unfortunately my old starter is long gone, so I can't undo that goof. I just made your wiring trick for the solenoid test, but now the truck fires off every time instead of sticking. Grrr...
I don't appear to have a starter relay on the firewall or fender, the FSM shows it in 88' for the manual, but not auto...
I'm retarded when it comes to schematics, so I'm unfortunately having a hard time visualizing how to install your starter relay trick.

In the automatic, it is the neutral start switch that replaces the relay. But to add a dedicated relay, you connect terminal 30 to 12 volts (the main starter power post is good - use a fuse or circuit breaker), terminal 85 to the wire that normally runs to the solenoid, terminal 86 to ground (these two connections turn the relay on) and then hook 87 to the starter solenoid. Or pick up the Painless Wiring HotShot relay kit and follow the directions that come with it.

How are the negative wires on your truck?

Try running a new negative wire from the block to the battery.

Yep, did that for good measure when I installed the new battery yesterday. The original one looked fine, but in the off chance there was some hidden internal corrosion under the insulation I swapped it out, used dielectric grease on all connections as well.
The only recent thing I found today that MIGHT have been suspect was the female spade terminal going to #50 (solenoid). It wasn't damaged, but was a tad too easy sliding on the solenoid male spade terminal. I crimped it for a tighter connection.

It clicked for me once today when I was trying 4Crawler's wiring troubleshooter. I hopped under the fender to hook it up, went back to get a "clicking" voltage and the damn truck fired right off. Frustrating to say the least. I'd rather it do one or the other consistently!

One trick is to leave the test wire hooked up and you can even run a longer wire back to the cab and leave a volt meter connected. That way when it starts normally, observe the voltage. Then when it does not start, check again and if the voltage to the solenoid has dropped, there is an issue upstream of the starter. If the voltage is OK, there is an issue inside the solenoid. And if that is the case, don't hesitate to open up the solenoid for a look-see. Not uncommon for a newly "rebuilt" starter to have worn contacts. Why? Since it tends to be an intermittent issue, if the starter tests out fine on the bench, many places will just clean it up and put a fresh coat of paint on it and call it "rebuilt".

Try replacing the engineblock-to-body ground wire.
I think on my 22R (carbed) it is at the back
end of the cylinder head.

I also loosened the solenoid big cable moved it back an forth and retightened it. It seemed to help.

Sounds like you have corrosion on your battery terminal. You need to remove the cable and clean it and the terminal on the starter until its shiny.