hey guys i'm sure this has been covered somewhere but i couldnt find it but i just put my raider back together after some bottom end work, then had issues wiring stuff back up, i got some help on the wiring end but no spark at all still this is strange because i was running with just some minor timing issues but now nothing i may have torched something when i had the wiring wrong so i replaced the ignition coil and still get no spark any ideas? i would say its a fusible link somewhere or something i'm at a loss its been a 3 day escapade any help would be great! <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/scared.gif" alt="" />

Hard to tell, post of some pics of your wiring. Did you remove the dizzy ? If so did you put it back in correctly with the engine at TDC. I hate to admit this but did you put the rotor in, happened to me once <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/lol.gif" alt="" />

Do you have the FSM, are you getting power at the coil?

did not pull the dist. i will get some pics up here asap. now mind you i'm not great when it comes to ignition systems but i pulled the hot wire from the dist. and layed it near the block and had the wife ( my garage help) hit the key and there was no arc from the wire to the block that would indicate (i assume) that there is no current From the coil to rule out any misinformation i may have i replaced that wire and then pulled a plug and did the same test, as anticipated i got no spark there either the wiring at the coil is correct per a photo posted here and the FSM

heres the ignition setup

I don't know much about the 4 bangers...

But the good news is I think I found your missing orange handled nut driver! <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/pfft.gif" alt="" />

MI-Mitsu

Do you have a digital or needle/dial voltmeter that will measure low voltage a/c?

You need to check the igniter in the distributor under the centrif advance weights, and the wiring to it. The wiring goes through the two wire harness on the dizzy to the coil - and ground and is just the switched gound that fires the coil. The igniter watches the voltage as the 4 pole iron rotor passes the reluctor windings, making a/c voltage in the process. The voltage goes from positive to negative, passing zero, and the igniter interrupts the coil ground path. The wires inside the dizzy, especially on any engine that's been overheated (and all the old 2.6's have, at least once) get brittle insulation tha can flake off and ground out the igniter wires or the ground path wires, all of which will prevent spark.

To isolate the test to the coil, remove all wires from coil + and -, marking for correct reinstall, and use jumper wires with alligator clips to take battery 12v+ to coil +, hook an alligator clip to the coil -, and make/break the contact of the other end of that wire with a good ground. every time you break the contact, the coil-to-dizzy wire should jump at least a 1/4" gap to a good engine block ground with a good coil. The spark should be blue white and hot. If no spark, replace coil and test replacement the same way. Proceed if it was good.

Now inspect the inside of the dizzy cap closely, looking for cracks, carbon tracking, condition of the graphite button that rides the rotor conductor, condition of spark wire internal towers where the spark jumps from rotor tip to tower. Make sure the dizzy rotor turns when you crank the truck. reinstall the dizzy cap, check the dizzy connector, and test for 12v at the two wires that feed the coil +, one of which will have power (less than 12v thru the resistor) when key is in run, and the other, not thru the resistor, of 12v when the key is in start. Test wire to a good ground for dc volts. Reconnect coil wires. Crank truck and test for spark with coil -dizzy wire 1/4" from ground. No spark means either igniter is bad or rotor is bad.

interesting you just posted that, i was messing with it again and came in to ask you guys what you thought on that subject. In response, no i dont have a multimeter, what i DID do was this i used the high tensile cable from the coil and plugged an extra spark plug into it, then with it laying on the valve cover, i manually grounded the coil with a jumper wire to the body at which point i got a very energetic spark which indicates that my new coil is wired properly and that it was not being grounded by my dizzy. It would make complete sense that something in the dizz was burnt when I had my coil improperly wired the question is, can I replace the igniter or do I now require a new dizz altogether also was my low tech test definitive? considering that when i did the same test and allowed the dizz to handle the grounding responsibilities I didnt achieve a spark...

sounds like the igniter or wiring thereof. Igniter is just a box in the dizzy. Two screws after you get the centrif out of the way, which is one loctited bolt to the dizzy shaft.

LRJ4x4, do you have any pics showing how to line up the dizzy when at TDC? I replaced my dizzy and it was working great, and now I'm fowling on #2 and #4 cylinders (checked with timing light).... Thanks....