Is there something that I need to know about year changes around the 5.2 Magnum that sits in JGC's and Dodges. I know that some changes on electrical and ECU but that's just about all I know. I'm looking into giving my old truck new life and some more power by swaping in a 5.2 but I don't want to go out there not knowing anything and buying the only model/year engine that was a bastard, that would be just my luck.
I know most of you guy's run 4.0 I6 but since V8 swaps are quite common in the Jeep world someone must be able to shine and pour out some knowledge.

I would first be looking at gear changes to get the present engine into it's power band.. As most engines would use the approximate same rpm to acheive power the gear change would also help after an engine swap. Just changing engines will give only a bit more horespower if the vehicle is lugging from too much high gearing.
Big JIm <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/pfft.gif" alt="" />

The 5.2 is questionable for a swap as it is not good for low-end torque. A Chevy 350 would give somewhat better performance.

However, matching gears to engine is a cheaper alternative.

Caution: smog standards apply and depending on state, some swaps cannot be done.

On second thought...

What is the projected vehicle to receive the engine???

Thanks for the reply guy's.
The gears couldn't be better matched as is, it's 5.29:1 with a 2.5 diesel and a 5 speed manual. The problem is that it's a 2.5 diesel.
The reason for choosing the 5.2 out of a JGC or a Ram/Dakota it that it's a 125hp gain with an overdrive tranny and the front output in the right place, and since they also have a propper hood and engine bay the electrics are in length to splice into the mitsu loom. I also get a usable lowrange going from 1.96 to a 2.72.
It's alot cheaper over here to go this way than looking for a 350 or a 302 with EFI.
I'm not in the states so SMOG isn't a real issue, if it's within the limit that's given for cars older than 1995 it's good.
As for gears I will be going for 4.88 or 4.63 to keep the Rpm's in check and doing so the axles will be beefed up to a 8"HP front and a 9.5" rear.

All I'm worried about is the change in engine management and the fact some have hydraulic controled trannies and some have electronic control. I don't want to end up with something that cant be applied to my mitsu because of electronic complications (I don't want to much of the jeep wireing in my car) or a bad year of drivetrain that has the 4cyl transmission, the 2-stroke t-case or a 3 spline input gear.
What would be the best year to look for in a donor.

I know people that have:
swapped a Hemi into a Wrangler
swapped a 5.0l into a Wrangler
swapped 350 into a Wrangler
swapped a 5.0l into an Izusu Amigo

The 350 is the cleanest swap.

So, if you are set on a 5.2 you probably should look for a donor older than 1996. That is about when the OBDII came into production. It will complicate your swap having to deal with the sensor inputs. For more info, see: http://www.obdii.com

OBDII ushered in the shift from hydraulic to electronic control transmissions and a host of sensors.

Unless, you can get the entire combination of computer, engine, transfercase, and transmission. Then, about any year will do.

That's just the thing I've been asking myself these day's, if I go for a 'modernized' engine with the OBD and the works, how much more of a hassle is it against the non OBD engines with EFI. I know there must be a series of exhaust sensors, a TPS, MAF, knock sensor and maybe 2 speed sensors like in the WJ. The question is how is it integraded into the rest of the car, is the wireing all in the front and everything behind the firewall just the dashboard and lights. The ideal setup would be to remove all the engine harness untouched from the donor and hooking it up to the things that matter in my truck, like +12v, starter, ignition and so on.
I know it's not quite that simple but you catch my drift. Also what's to be gained by going that way? Will I be able to remap my ECU with a SuperChips module and will that affect the shiftpoints on the transmission. If that's not the case the pre OBD is clearly a better choice considering price and availability.

I'm getting dizzy..............better grab a cold one <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" />

TF3TD out

Check http://www.painlessperformance.com

They have a number of replacement wiring harnesses.

I can't confirm specifics, however, the ones I have seen appear to be very tight integration into a main wire harness.

I did some looking into SuperChips and was left with a lot of questions for anything but a Chevy 350.

The problem with the sbc 350 in my case is price. If I went the chevy route then I surely wouldnt install an old carbureted one, LT1 or LS1 would be my choice but they cost just about as much as my Mitsu due to popularity. The 5.0 mustang is the same thing but much rarer over here. So that leaves the me with the Chrysler wich is a durable engine that can take a beating, not so sure on the trans but if it's a follow up from the 727 it should do it for me. But if anything else swings my way for the right price I probably will take a u-turn on donors since I'm not hung up on the Chevy/Ford dillema like most petrolheads are.

But has anyone any idea whats the difference betwen a non-OBD and a OBD wireing, I'm thinking that if I pull it without cutin to much of the wires that the end that connects to my car should be roughly the same, only leaving alot more of plugs and wires that come untouched with the engine and trans.

This is going to be a time consuming project no matter what route I'm going so I'm not going to jump on something and just try to bang it together. The controling factor is price, the sooner I get a donor, the sooner I can start it. I can get a older ZJ for the money I get from selling my old diesel engine so that is what I'm aiming for.

I have not followed the ZJ transmission options.

I do know the transfer case are NP series and durable.

And, Chrysler makes a durable engine. The 318 will take a lot of abuse.

Sorry, I do not know enough about the different OBD systems to help you.

I like the simplicity of the older systems....

I have a 5.2l Magnum in my CJ-8. Here is a couple links to a CJ forum where I posted pics of my CJ and answered a bunch of questions about the swap:

http://www.cjoffroad.com/forums/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=17626&SearchTerms=5.2l,magnum

http://www.cjoffroad.com/forums/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=18811&SearchTerms=5.2l,Magnum

I've posted alot over there about the swap so search around a bit more!

As for the conversion in the Pajaro, You would be best off using a '92-'95 OBD-1 setup as the EFI is simpler than the OBD-2, with less sensors. The wiring conversion is basically the same as swapping in a 4.0l using an original harness, except for the two extra injectors!

As for the trans, you will need to decide on what driveline length is acceptable. The '93-'95 used a 46RH automatic, which is hydraulicly controlled (except for the lockup and overdrive), but it's pretty long. The '96 and later models used the lighter duty 44RE which is electronically controlled by the OBD-2 PCM. If you run OBD-2, you can wire it all in with the engine harness. It's about 5" shorter, if I remember right. There's a chance that if you use a transmission controller from a '93-'95 ZJ 4.0l 42RE, you could use the 44RE with the OBD-1 system. One more auto Overdrive is the 46RE, from a Dakota, Durango or ZJ 5.9l. Basically it's the same length as the 44RE, with the main guts of the 727, but fully electronic.

If overdrive is not needed, a 727 can be used from a Dodge truck. With a Jeep Grand Wagoneer output shaft and rear adapter housing, the length is around 23.5" Non Magnum transmissions can be adapted by simply grinding in a hole to clear the block mounted crank sensor.

Four or Five speed Manual transmissions are an option too, but they only came out of Dodge trucks.

One more thing about the transmissions, Dodge transmissions have the starter on the left side, ZJ transmissions have the starter on the right side, tucked in a bit tighter for more clearance.

Hope this helps!

P.S. My stock 5.2l Magnum gets around 16 MPG in daily driving, and has ALOT more bottom end than my EFI 4.2l had, plus double the HP at around 220-230 stock.

P.P.S. If more torque is needed, the 5.9l Magnum will fit exactly the same and has around 50 lbs/ft more than the 295 that the 318 has. New 4" stroker cranks are relatively inexpensive at around $300 for cast ones good to around 500 HP, which will bring a 318 to a 390, and a 360 to a 408 using stock length rods and inexpensive pistons, the whole stroker doesn't cost much more than a normal rebuild!