I have a 1979 CJ7 that has a in-line-six-banger in it,one barrel carb. and a three speed trans. in it.Engine is a 258and the problem I have is that it floods out and stalls on steep grades unless you use first gear low range,then sometimes sluggage.It has 31x10.50 tires on it.What can I do to fix this problem of stalling.I'm going to use the jeep for hunting mostly.We do have some steep mountains here in southern WV,gas-line-roads and logging roads.Alot of the places I built my own road to.So I could use some advice on lockers also.

Flooding out is unusual indeed.. Does it smoke black smoke when flooding out?
I'm thinking I would be looking at tune up parts in the lectric spark system before thinking about the carb.
Carb problems usually occur on the hiway as well as off road. That particular carb is meant to be used off road and most times works fine off road.
Perhaps you could tell us more about when it happens.
Only up hill?
Only with your pedal mashed to the floor?
Only on rough places?
Only when you first "punch" the pedal?
Does it do this when on a flat place and "lugging" the engine?
Give as many particulars as you can.
We will get to lockers later.
Big JIm <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/pfft.gif" alt="" />

You can try lowering the float level in the carb. It will help but might cause it to run lean on level ground. That is the problem with carbs and jeeps, carbs don't like changes in inclination, and jeeps love them.

How much money do you have to spend on lockers? Do you have good mechanical skills and tools?

If you have no money and no mechanical skills, a lockrite or similar product is the way to go for the rear axle. I've had a lockrite in my jeep for 4 years now and it still works great. Otherwise if you have money, the sky is the limit. ARB's front and rear, ETC...

I'm on a budget,retired from the state,so I'm not broke,but I'm not rich.I am a retired diesel mechanic so my skills are above average and have plenty of tools and a mig welder.

You didn't answer any of my questions... I am trying to say that if it will go uphill in a lower gear it most likely ain't the carb flooding..
Big JIm <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/pfft.gif" alt="" />

Sorry Big Jim missed your reply.Motor has been rebuilt by a shop.Has a brand new tune up,does not happen on highway,does not do it anywhere except up steep long grades in the mountains,200 to 300 hundred yards.You can punch it on level ground and it runs like a bat out of H**l.Here is exactly what is does,runs great until you get over half way up a steep grade,then the motor starts to slow down until it stalls.You go to start it back up,a few more cranks than normal,and then you see all kind of black and you have to run the engine about half open to get it to smooth out.The vacuum advance is working the choke is working and fuel is not contaminated.Again sorry about not seeing your last reply,thanks.

That last 2/300 yards.. Is that a rough stretch or is it a smooth ride? How many rpm is it turning at that location?
I'm leaning towards a slow fuel filter or a sticky float..
If the grade is really steep and the float hangs it would begin to pump more fuel than the engine could take. But it should STAY stuck after the engine dies and NEVER start in that stuck position. So the slow filter is getting my vote at this time.
Big JIm <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/pfft.gif" alt="" />

I believe you are right on the button.I don't believe it is getting gas going up a steep grade,oh by the way the grades are mostly smooth,gas-line roads.Come to think about it,you don't smell any gas while this is going on,only after you restart it.I'll change filters and let you know.

I would offer an additional item to look at... fuel pump.

I believe your engine has a mechanical fuel pump. I can equate your experiences with a 74 CJ (304) where I had similar issues until I changed the mechanical fuel pump.

Seems previous owner had rebuilt the engine but not replaced the fuel pump. For whatever reason the fuel pump would not deliver proper amount of gas under heavy load -- steady uphill pull.

I did replace fuel pump with noted improvement. However, due to other reasons, the engine was replaced and I did not have the same problem with the replacement engine so I cannot say for sure that was the problem.

Black smoke = flooded engine.
If it were lean, there would be nothing to burn black, and you would have to pump the heck out of the gas to get it to restart.

You are flooding out the carb on a steep grade. The car will start and run like normal at the bottom, because the level of fuel in the float bowl is correct because you started on level ground. As you go up the steep grade the float level changes from the angle, dropping the float letting in more fuel than normal. Also, the float vent is in line with the car with that carb(I think), dumping fuel down the throat of the carb when it is at weird angles.

Unfortunately, that is just the nature of the beast. You can try dropping the float level, or perhaps extending the bowl vent higher. But, if you want an all angle engine, you need to get rid of the carter carb. Some people have luck with edelbrock carbs. An expensive EFI kit will fix it right up, but it is... Expensive. You might be able to get around it by down shifting and letting the engine rev higher, but if you are already in first and lugging that won't work.


If you have a good set of dial indicators and torque wrenches, I'd go with an old fashion detroit locker in the rear. They are strong and reliable. If you still street the jeep, you may only want just a rear locker. I still like my lockrite though. It is simple and works for me. When it breaks or wears out, I'll probably get another. All you have to do is pull the diff cover, yank out the old side and idler gears and replaces them with the locker. It isn't as strong, but it is so much cheeper and so fast and easy to install that the weakness is outweighed in my mind.

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