The bolts have locktite applied by the factory to the threads. You can apply a bit of heat to the bolt heads with a propane torch to loosen the grip of the locktite, but be careful not to catch anything on fire or overheat the u-joint! Only apply the heat to the bolt head for about 30 seconds then see if the bolt will come un-done! The torque spec is 20 ft/lbs at the t-case front yoke.
At stock, no lift height, the lower control arms can be most easily removed if you only do one at a time, with the vehicle on the ground or on a drive on hoist. Make sure the park brake is set and the other wheels are blocked to prevent movement. The other arms will hold the axle in close alignment. If the jeep has been lifted, the best way is to remove the springs, then support the axle evenly and lift it up so the arms are parallel to the ground then remove and replace them one at a time.
At each bushing, look for any rusty dust coming from where the bolt goes through the bushing, or where the steel shell of the bushing is pressed into the control arm. Either or both ends could be the culpret. If there is rusty dust at the bolt sleeve, retorquing usually will fix it. If there is rusty dust at where the bushing fits into the arm, you should replace the arm.
An impact wrench will make removal and installation easier, but it's not needed. You should use a torque wrench to set the final tightness going back together. The front axle to lower control arm bolts get 85 ft/lbs, the frame to lower control arms get 130 ft/lbs. All the rear suspension lower control arm bolts get 130 ft/lbs. All of the front and rear upper control arm bolts get 55 ft/lbs.
Be sure to check the torque of the track bar where it connects to the frame and to the axle. The front gets 55ft/lbs at the axle, 65 ft/lbs at the frame end. The rear gets 74 ft/lbs at both ends.
Last edited by MartySoCal; 09/12/09 04:06 PM.
