'88 Starion TSI 2.6l Engine arrived here last week. Looks very complete but plan on freshing it up over Winter for a Spring install.

Where to start?

Anyone need a Starion 5 speed?

Wanna just sell the tailshaft off of it??

I'd rather have the whole thing out of my garage, but PM me an offer.

Already got a tailshaft, I got a bud wanting one Ill have to find his email and let you two talk it out.

sounds good to me!

Where to start....

Do you know the condition of the engine (mileage, compression numbers, blown headgasket?) and what year car it came out of? Did you get the wiring harness, ECU, ignition parts, etc.?

Starting with the long block I like to:
Pull the head (check for cracks, flatness, adjust mech. valves if applicable, replace all intake/exhaust studs/nuts).
Check the exhaust manifold for cracks and make sure the flange surface is flat.
Check the turbo for play and get a new oil feed line.
Replace timing components (Optionally pull balance shafts).
Replace water pump.
Install ARP head studs and the "MLS" head gasket.
Replace all gaskets.

The Raider and Starion oil pumps are different. It's your decision on how to make that work. I think it's easier to go with a truck oil pump, so that might be another thing to buy.

If you want to be extra careful you could also check/replace all the bearings.

On the fuel side:
Test your injectors, TPS, MPS, and coolant temp sensor. The other stuff (MAS, FPR, etc.) almost never goes bad so you shouldn't have to worry about that.

On the ignition side:
Open up the distributor and make sure it clean, oiled and moves freely.
If your working with an 1987 or earlier engine setup I would consider upgrading to the metal "knock box". The earlier ignition boxes (black, plastic, & about the size of a pack of cigarettes) is known to fail. Instructions on how to wire in the newer box are in the FAQ on starquestclub.com

I'll also plug http://www.enginemachineservice.com for any engine parts you may need. Randy has all the little, hard to find pieces in stock and his prices are generally better than the dealer.

It sounds like a lot of work, but it's easier to put things together correctly now than it is to half-ass it and fix it later.

Came from an '88 originally, but latest was in a mid 80's Corrola :-) I have a video of it running but unknown miles, compression etc. I have the '88 ECU (checked numbers) metal knock box, harness, alternator, starter, hoses, intercooler, BOV... looks very complete. Has a Garrett turbo that looks very clean.


Yep planning on this. Was actually looking at a Clearwater head replacement. I see some with mechanical lifters and others with hydraulic - which is preferred?

OK, didn't know this about the EM. Has a braided sst oil line. Planning on replacing timing components. If I pull the balance shaft - what does this do or improve?

Yes, in plan.

yes a truck pump, oil pick-up and a gen 1 oil pan with turbo oil return welded in.

yes - in plan

needs injectors, I'll check the rest. What about a MAF upgrade to a G1 Eclipse?



Yea, looked easier than a 4.3l swap... I've had a few turbo cars in the past, '86 Mustang SVO way back in '88 and an '89 Mazda MX6 in about '91 I think. Can't wait to get another up and boosted ;-)

What about Wiseco Pistons? <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/evil.gif" alt="" />

Balance shaft/silent shafts are just dead weight. Some say dont remove em unless you rebalance the motor. I pulled em, seems good so far.

Mechanical vs. hydraulic lifters I'd say your choice. Only thing Ive heard is that actual mechanical lifter help you dial in your timing a lil bit more. But wouldnt take my word as gospel.

Exhaust mani is 20years old all of em get old and worn out. I know in my experiences all the 2.6 NA exhaust manis Ive pulled are cracked.

Piston questions... hypereutectic vs. forged?

If my EM is cracked - what about a SST Tubular (fleeebay special) as a replacement?

Pretty green on that part myself. But I always thought forged was for BIG power. Kevin C went hyper-u on his. Pretty sure there is a big upcharge on the forged.