Yeah, I'm not sure what he meant by that aside from the fact that plastics are made from petrochemicals. Not sure I'd read too much into that one. Everybody has a degree of bias and this could've been his slam against Mobil 1 to prove a point with Delo and Rotella.

I've used Mobil 1 0w-40 now for quite a while and my Blackstone reports have been great. Here's some numbers to compare with JohnnyB's Rotella report with 6k miles on the oil and 136,535 on the engine:

Aluminum - 3
Iron - 8
Lead - 8
Tin - 1
Copper - 3
Moly - 78
Zinc - 1018

I usually don't like getting into oil discussions as they are largely useless. Just put any good oil in it and change it as spec'd. Used oil reports are mostly a hobby with me but they can also give an alert to a particular problem. I buy Mobil 1 because it's readily available, price isn't too bad, and the 0w-40 pretty much solved my lash adjuster noise on start-up.

I agree. However this post has given me more insight than expected. I suppose this says a lot about the people on this forum. Thanks guys.

Really, 0W-40? Isn't that pretty much as thin as water when cold? Hey if it works...

One area that has concerned me is that many of the newer oils supposedly have less AW additives, and that this is considered an issue for non roller cams.

Kevin

Well I must admit my eyes started to roll as soon as I saw the title, but there are some interesting points in here...

I use Rotella as well, although my truck pounds it more than most of yours do, being a diesel. I use the synth in the truck, and the dino in my bike (KLR 650 - big single). I do want to send in a sample some day, to see if my interval is too long... I usually go about 7k miles between oil changes, since my filter is so expensive (and huge) but I wonder if that's too long...?

I'd think that's way too long on a diesel. They usually have a much shorter change interval than a gas motor. The newer low sulfur fuels may have changed that, but I've seen nothing to indicate so, although I don't follow diesel news much...

I use Used Oil Analysis (UOA) to initially set my oil change interval (OCI) for a particular oil. You will need to ask for a Total Base Number (TBN) with the analysis which will cost an extra $10 over the approx. $20 analysis fee. I don't know if you can just buy a TBN or not. I believe a TBN of greater than 2 means there's still contaminate fighting additives in the oil. In my last analysis Blackstone advised I could go to 7k OCI from 6k, but 6k equals about 1 year OCI which I'm happy with.

For some idea of filter condition the "Soot" concentration in the analysis will tell you how well the filter is doing it's job. I believe better filtration trumps oil make choice. Once my OCI is set I do once per year analysis (no TBN) to see if any anti-freeze/excessive fuel is in the oil and what the used oil properties are compared to new. Frankly if I'd see excessive wear metals in the analysis I don't know what I'd do, other than a rebuild. If the engine was running OK with good compression and no/little oil consumption then you might as well drive it for now no matter the wear, unless you want to unload it on the next guy to fix, but I'll leave that to your own conscience.

Phil
When I had my 1984 Mitsubishi Turbo Diesel, I used to get my filters from Kragens auto parts. It was a Fram, but when you open the box it was a repackaged Mitsubishi OEM filter. Priced at around $14.00. Check it out, maybe you will have the same luck.

Also PM sent to you.

I refuse to read another 100 post oil debate. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/patriot.gif" alt="" />

Here are my personal experiences with oil and Mitsu motors.

-Switching to synthetic on a high mileage 6g72 DOHC TT motors has often lead to a spun bearing in the first 3000 miles.

-Using synthetic on a new rebuilt motor is fine but unnecessary, as dyno 10/30 works just fine. Ran over 1000HP on dyno.

-6g72 SOHC motor was ran 30k miles on anything resembling oil (automatic tranny fluid, gear oil, brake fluid, 2 stoke oil, chainsaw lube, etc) Never changed the filter. Still didn't die until I sprayed multiple shots of straight nitrous @6000rpm with no oil or coolant. (got a sweet video of that if anyone is interested)

No science here, just personal experience.