Okay so here's a question for ya. Got to watchin some European restoration show and the gentleman on there revived an ol MR2 paint job with some elbow grease and some compound. Got me to thinkin about the ol girl and her desperatly faded paint job. The last ten plus years of in the sun and weather have taken a pretty good toll on her paint job. Oxidation has lead to some flaking and a whole lot of fading to the roof and hood. Some lookin around has got me interested in the idea of trying to cut and polish her back up, but I'm worried that there won't be any good paint left to cut to and I can't afford to make it worse. Any ideas? I know this is more of a tech/repair site, but I imagine there's someone here who has the know how on this one. I'm not lookin for showroom shine, but I'd like to get the color evened up a bit and get a bit of a shine after a good washing. Right now she's half dull, half shine and that just sucks. Thanks

Figures I post the question and go about some more searching and find an answer to my question. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/rolleyes.gif" alt="" /> Sounds like my situation is that the clearcoat has failed, so in theory buffing it won't do a thing to help. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/scared.gif" alt="" /> So my revised question is how can I go about repainting the hood and roof to match close enough to the rest of the truck. Spraygun or is there a rattle can equivilent? Again not looking for show room here, just something better then where it is now. I'm absolutely green when it comes to paint, but I'm a quick study and willing to give it a try. Any thoughts? Thanks

I caught the same episode.

If the clear coat has faded, you can still try to do some reconditioning of it. If it is rough you can wet sand it smooth using some 1500grt sandpaper, then medium cut, polishing, wax. An automotive paint supply shop(or paints supply store that sells automotive paints) should be able to tell you what products you need, and sell you everything you need from the compounds to the polisher. A standard electric sander isn't going to be helpful for polishing. This polisher form Porter/Cable would be a good investment, either to try first to see what you can do w/what you have now, or for during the finish work after you paint. It has a built in pressure sensor to prevent you from burning through the paint when cutting/polishing.

Rattle Can
Duplicor paints are usually a close match depending on your color, the newer paints are better matched and more colors to choose from, not so much for colors from the '80's and early '90'.

Some dealerships used to be able to order matching code paints in a spray can, but I am not sure if any do anymore, it has been about 15yrs since I ordered some for my '90.

I did find automotive coded paint in a spray can when looking for paint for my project Supra(need to paint a fender and bumper skins), it ran $20/can

It wasn't shown on Wheeler Dealers, but you usually need to sand rattle can paint to get a smooth factory looking finish, then and follow it up with polishing/waxing especially along the edges where the new paint meets the old.

Spray gun
Duplicor also makes their Paint Shop series of paints that aren't as toxic as traditional automotive paints. These paints do not require an air filtering paint booth and can be done in your home garage, but you should still invest($20) in an automotive paint sprayer mask. The masks are good for about 45hrs or one yr, since they don't have replaceable filters. The duplicor paint comes ready to spray, no mixing, though you are limited to their current line of colors, plus 3 more(according to their forum) slated to be released soon. It is lacquer paint, so don't expect it to last as long as traditional automotive paints. The paint runs about $20/can, you would need about $100 worth do do an entire vehicle(1 can of primer, 2 cans of base, 2 cans of clear). I painted a 7' Toyota truck bed trailer with it 3 CA summers ago and the clear hasn't faded at all, unlike most on the paint forums had claimed. The clear was a bit soft at first but it has hardened up and I can't scratch it any easier than oem paint.

Before doing any painting, I would buy a clay bar to smooth out the paint, a bottle of Zymol car polish(deepens the color, gives it a wet look) about 3 coats should work, followed up w/a couple of coats of a good wax to see what you have. This would be the cheapest route, and shouldn't run you more than about $60. If you wanted to try wet sanding the clear, I would try it on the roof first, where any mistakes are less likely to be seen.

You might also be interested in this Roll-on-paint job using marine paint. There is another roll-on-paint post on a Mopar site, the guy used a paint called tremclad which isn't available here in the U.S., the closest thing he could find was rustoleum. I tried his process an old hood but couldn't ever to get it to harden right, but I also don't think I ever really got it thinned enough either. I think the marine paint would be the better way to go.

Hey thx for the reply, lots of good info. My worry is that the clear is gone and flaking off. If I'm understanding that means I'm pretty much hosed with it comes to reconditioning and or polishing it back up. I'd rather attempt that then try to repaint the hood and roof. Worried about matching the color being that it is a '94 and as you stated my options for a rattle can match isn't as good. I guess I'm just worried about sanding it to polish it if the clear is really gone. Or am I just being too cautions?

Cochip, what's the color?

Hoods in Idaho for $100 or less.

I "fixed" a fender on a Corolla moons ago, to resell the car. Fender was trashed, and someone used it to "learn" bondo. Left a pile stuck to it. Ended up finding a used fender, same paint code at a junkyard for $40. Even had the same Arizona fade to it. Definately a great time and cash saver on that one!

It's silver, hadn't thought about lookin into a replacement. I'd rather keep all her parts if you know what I mean, but if this paint and or polishing thing doesn't look good I may just give it a look.

If the clear coat has degraded enough to be visible, sanding it isn't going to do anymore harm, providing you don't go at it with a belt sander. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" /> However, before trying any wet sanding I would recommend picking up a hood(doesn't matter which brand) w/bad clear coat and try refinishing it first. This way you would get an idea of what might work for the short term, and not have to worry about making your truck's paint look any worse. It will also make for a good practice piece if you decide to try repainting the entire truck.

On practice hood:
Test one, use some 2000grit wet sandpaper and light sanding, then followed up with polish and wax. You could use 1500grit, but w/2k you are less likely to sand through the clear, then you are w/1500.

Test two, if the polish doesn't help, you could consider spraying a layer of duplicor lacquer over it, basically adding a fresh coat of clear coat. You would need to strip the wax and polish off before spraying the lacquer on it. You could even leave an area unsprayed to see what type of edge the lacquer leaves, and whether or not it can be wet sanded to blend in w/the factory clear.

Test 3, try repainting the hood w/rattle can paint, wet sand, polish wax to get an idea of what repainting will look like, before and after wet sanding or the use of an aggressive polishing compound.

With the life expectancy of clear coats only be 7yrs, none of the cheap fixes fixes are permanent, the clear will continue to fade, peal and separate from the base. The only real cure is a complete sanding down to the base, new base and new clear. This is where I am at now w/my '90. The sad thing is it is only the clear coat that has been applied for repairs that is fading and flaking off, w/the exception of scratches from 20yrs of wheeling and swirl marks from washing/polishing/waxing, the factory clear coat is still good.