Last night my Jeep Liberty decided not to run.

It will start fine but only runs for a second and then stalls out.

It's giving the code P1686, which has something to do with the microchip in the key, the thing is that there is no microchip in the key, never has been.

I've reset the computer several times, but still having the same issue.

Any ideas??

Update - Had it towed to the shop. They replaced the PCM and that didn't fix the problem. It is still giving the code 1686 and wants a key with a microchip, only I have never had a microchipped key. The mechanic is as stumped as I am.

Anyone else out there ever had a similar problem?

Have you tried another key? I don't know about that ride but all of my rides have chipped keys.. You can't tell it by looking but they are in there. In fact my chevies even know which key is inserted key 1 or 2!
Big Jim <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/pfft.gif" alt="" />

I just checked.. If you have black plastic on the key it isn't chipped.. If you have grey or tan on the key it IS chipped.
Big JIm <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/pfft.gif" alt="" />

Big Jim is right on the key colors. The majority of Libertys have it! Any kind of remote keyless entry module usually has SKIM, too.

You should check with your local Chrysler/Jeep Dodge dealer, have them run your VIN to see if the Liberty originally came with the SKIM (Sentry Key Imobilizer Module) system. If so, it's possible that your key is bad, and/or the SKIM module is bad or not communicating over the vehicles bus. A new key and/or SKIM module would need to be programmed using a secret code and a scan tool capable of communicating with the SKIM module and the PCM. The dealer can supply you with the secret SKIM code, but you probably will need to bring proof of ownership to get it from them. A new key is usually around $60, with maybe .5 to 1 hour labor to program it.

The thing is. I have a black key, it doesn't have a microchip.

Is it possible there is still a SKIM though? Cause I do have keyless entry and maybe the SKIM is bad???

Yep! All the SKIM are ready for the chipped key.. Since you have the black key there is no chip. I betcha the SKIM jiggled itself to looking for a key that was never there..
I don't know how to get around that damn thing.. Have you tried to lock and unlock with the feyfob and then trying to start her in this way and then that way? Maybe even with this or that door in lock position? Might even be a short in a door?
Big JIm <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/pfft.gif" alt="" />

They towed it from the service shop to the dealer service center yesterday.

Ended up being the PCM went out.

Dealer says it doesn't have a SKIM at all so that couldn't have been it.

Major upsettting part. Can get a reman PCM from Allcomputerresources in Florida that is programmed to the speicfic VIN with a lifetime warranty for $295. Dealership charged $747 to replace the damn thing and only gave a 12month, 12,000 mile warranty. I feel a little ripped off but I'm glad it's running again.

I might go back to the Stealership and hash it out with them. You could prolly cause enough probelms for them that they might want you to be happy and go away, and if it's within three days you might be able to tell them to take the part back and basically shove it - depends on state law and value cap. At least give them a hard time and let them know you're not their fool. My .02. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/evil.gif" alt="" />

Alot of times, the PCMs are covered under the federal or state extended emissions warranty, usually 7 years, 70k or 80k miles.

That's good to know (bout the black or gray).. I see a lot of keys in my business, and I've noticed how to usually tell chip keys by eye. Never knew that tho. A lot of chip keys will have a tell-tale sumthing stamped into them. It may even look more like a tool mark/ding than anything significant, but it usually does indicate a chip key. Fords will disable the car until it is re-enabled by a "good" key..