OK, well...consider the crown in the road? Most roads are designed and graded to drain to the right side shoulder.

Find a level dirt road and repeat exercise. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" />

I guess we will call it torque steer. I played with it last night and today and it looks like its only when I am under acceleration, even slight acceleration. When I let up on the gas the pull goes away. Thanks for everyone's input, it was just something new and I wasn't sure what was going on. I can live with this.

Have you considered the A arm bushing? Could point the right front wheel outwards if the front bushing pushes inward to the centerline of the truck or if the rear one pulls outwards from the centerline with the A arms now pulling in a forwards direction instead of tugged backwards from regular driving.

Its atleast worth checking for play in em with a prybar.

Are the c/v shafts the same length? My understanding of torque steer in fwd cars is from a longer shaft on one side.

Torque steer afflicts both FWD and 4WD vehicles as a function of rotational direction of the driveline, not length of the CV shaft. Typical open axle 4WD vehicles will experience spinning wheels at the LF and RR corners...even Chevy trucks with a long LF driveshaft in the front axle.

The UCA bushing is a good suggestion. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />

I somewhat disagree. Torque steer in fwd vehicles with unequal axle length is caused by axle windup, mostly. The longer axle winds up more than the shorter one. Thus the car pulls to the long axle side under accel, and back to the short side on decel.

Open axle 4wd or 2wd vehicles spin one wheel more than others due to chassis twisting and consequent wheel unloading due to engine torque, most pronounce with a longtitudinal engine setup. Ever watch a heavily loaded semi tractor start off uphill? Those things twist the chassis over 6", easy. Really nasty looking stuff. I once watched a D9 Cat 'dozer trying to pull out another stuck in the mud D9 twist more than that when it hooked up the tracks real well.

BTW, I would also check the idler arm wear and tie rod ends and ball joints. Any of these can cause your problem.

Thanks everyone. I am listening! So much of this I am unfamiliar with, I have a lot to learn. I don't have a day off of work until next Wed. when I will have a good chance to check all this out.

Thanks again!

I have had a similar experience that I easily fixed: When in 2WD my Gen 1 rode straight. When in 4WD it would pull to the right AND jump in and out of worn ruts in a highway. The fix cost nothing...

I checked the inflation of the tires and found one (on the right) to be low. After inflating all tires to their proper pressures, the pull to the right is gone and the tendency to jump in and out of ruts is diminished.

Why is this? Because in 2WD the four wheels are free to spin independently of each other. Therefore an under-inflated (slightly smaller radius) tire is free to spin at its own slightly faster rate. In 4WD the four tires' rotations are "locked" together. Any variation in tire diameters caused by either pressure variations or by using one new tire (say a spare) with three worn ones will cause pulling in the direction of the tire with the smaller diameter.

Interesting...I just had my tires rotated (3 weeks ago)and included the spare (which had not been included on last rotation). That would be awesome if its something that simple!

Thanks!

Have you otherwise been rotating the spare? If not, how many miles on the road set? If a lot, put the spare back on its hanger.

Similar premise could go if the spare is a different tire altogether. Not all same sizes are really the same when crossing brands, or even models.

These are 5 new BFG KM2's I ran them for 3000 miles then did a rotation but forgot to include the spare. So, another 3000 miles on the 4 before the spare got thrown into the rotation. It very well could be the issue, and I plan on checking everything else too. Thank you.