Whats up guys, I'm the proud new owner of a 87 Dodge Raider, 2.6 4 cyl 5 speed. I bought the car from a family friend and it was not very well taken car of Mechanically, although the interior is very nice! So In attempt to start somewhat of a maintenance schedule for my new wheels I did a tune up (NGK Plugs, wires, cap, and rotor) All the belts, Changed the Engine oil, and Gear oil out of the Transmission, and I want to change the oil out the diffs but forgot to check if my rear diff was Limited-slip. The Truck drives great, the only problem i have is after long drives the engine diesels (Keeps running after shutting key off) So any light on that would be greatly appreciated. Another question is I was reading into cranking up the torsion bars and Toyota shackles for a two inch lift, I understand that pre-loading the torsion bars will cause the upper control arms to contact the bump stops and cause the need to trim them and also affect the alignment. My question about the alignment is By cranking the torsion bar what of the alignment is affected? Caster, Camber, or Toe? is it something a general alignment shop could handle or does it have to be a frame alignment? Thanks for any help, and sorry that I am a noob

Welcome to the 4x4Wire!

I have an 87 Raider, too, amongst other Mitsus in the yard.

The only time I've had dieseling with my engine was after getting some bad fuel. Otherwise, there may be carbon build up on the pistons.

The question about the alignment has the solution of visiting a good shop. When you crank the t-bars, you will experience some camber change. Several folks have used the Gen II (US Model 1992-1996-ish) Montero upper control arms to alleviate this problem...the arms are longer.

Check for an orange sticker in the driver's door jamb to see about the LSD.

Cheers,
Russell

welcome to the wire! My rebuilt 2.6 had some dieseling issues and it was due to a failing carb. anything over 1000rpm would cause it to diesel when shutting down and idle under 850 would cause it to not idle. I switched to the weber carb (choke currently not working) and it will idle cold at 500rpm and about 6-700 warm with no issues. Keep an eye on the rpm when it does and doesn't do it. another cause could be timing too far advanced.
For the T-Bars, my initial crank of 1.75in required no alignment (from a driveability view). I then put the gen2 uca's on and cranked up to 2in and I had lots of positive camber. Most people put the gen2's on to compensate for negative camber and the longer arm works great. Not sure why my setup was different, but there were a few that experienced the same as me.
btw, rxinhed's comment is also very likely. I like using the Seafoam additive to clean that out along with some good gas. My old autoshop teacher used to say that putting a little water down the carb when running will clean it up, but hydrolock scares the crap out of me <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/baby.gif" alt="" />