share your knowledge, please

This one is an all aluminimum, open block design. It is a 1998 suzuki sidekick 1.8L, J18 I think it is called. Chain broke and bent some valves. Not an overheat. Head was fixed and here we go.

Reseaching this I see lots of talk about using different sprays on the gasket, copper, and some others hylomar, and Mopar....problem is I seldom know what engine these guys are talking about. Could be model airplanes for all I know.

So, what would you do? The FSM, which I found on internet says nothing about sprays. However, suzuki forum talk even goes so far as using "silver paint"!

Gotta get this donr so I can travel to the junkyard to find an ashtray.

thanks.

PS. The dealer gasket and bolts cost less than "Parts Dinosuar" About 100 total. Napa does not even list these parts on internet. I dont know what that means

Read this, for a professional opinion independent of make of gasket, and this for the info on Cometic MLS gaskets, and the web site of the mfr of your gasket for the final answer.

If it was a copper gasket, I would say use Hylomar. Are you reusing the old MLS gasket, or is this a new one.

And if I can quit smoking, so can you...

I am glad to hear you quit, congratulations.
I just need it to cover the hole there... and maybe a place to keep my secrets.

No. a new gasket and bolts from suzuki dealer. I did not ask what flavor it is. I assume it is what they use in the garage ...and that they know what is best.

I had another question but forgot
I guess there is no sense in even checking the block for flatness... because it is not coming out to be surfaced.
There is some places where it looks bad like the sleeves are sunken.
The head came back today. I did not measure before sending it out. I dont know if the FSM has a spec or not. Hopefully deale will assume the worse and send a thicker gasket. Or, I messed up not getting a "performance" part.

I would not use anything on a MLS. Only copper.

The MLS gaskets will come with a printed sealant where they need it. The contours of the gasket provide the sealing everywhere else.
The surface finish of the head and block are smoother than used with conventional composite gaskets.

okay oldcolt, but you didnt throw in your opinon of this engine as usual

I found this:

MLS head gaskets
Sealant use may be required when retrofitting MLS head gaskets to engines which were not originally produced with MLS head gaskets, or when using MLS head gaskets on engines that have not been properly prepared. For proper coolant and oil sealing, MLS head gaskets require surface finishes of 30 RA (Roughness Average) or finer, this is because the elastomeric coating on the sealing surfaces of MLS head gaskets is approximately .001" thick which is too thin to seal leak paths in the peaks and valleys of rougher (RA30+) finishes

from here:
http://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/wiki/Head_gasket

I dont know. I think this one looks like it may need extra help. Question is "Hylomar blue XP" or "mopar" or what?
http://www.roeracing.com/ProductCart/pc/viewPrd.asp?idcategory=243&idproduct=448

The gasket arrived, I forgot to read the brand.


These guys seem to be convinced that these gaskets need help sealing http://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Number=5733918


Not sure why that is so.

Ok, my opinion,



I would trust the technology in model airplanes more than the big V8s from Chevys and Mopars. Those $3K little radial engines are cool.

My 3.8 conversion the block was already MLS prepped but I used early DOHC heads as they were. I can not say they are sealed perfectly but they work fine. Same thing with a couple of 4G63s that I freshened used 200K engines and am running MLS where they were not originally speced. I found on these they wanted more torque on the head bolts to stay sealed.
Give the surfaces of the little Zuki a good look, if they are shiny the MLS gasket will seal perfectly as delivered. If they have a machined surface they may weep lightly but will not be an issue other than needing the coolant topped up periodically.
I expect when the head was serviced it got surfaced, what finish did they use and had you specified the use of an MLS?

Where it is common to block sand the top of an engine block, I would finish that up with a finer paper such as 400 grit. Obviously care and technique are required to block sand it but it is far better than scotch pads in an air motor.
I would expect the top of the Zuki block should have been quite shiny & smooth originally.

I then would go ahead and use the MLS as delivered. If you want or need to use any sealants just do so around the outer perimeter and not near the bores themselves.

"what finish did they use and had you specified the use of an MLS?"


I dont know. It is a good shop, they have alot of good tools for all types of things but probably not the most modern head resurfacing.... place has a dirt floor, I think. They probably sent it out to another shop for surface, after replacing bent valves and pressure testing.
I should not assume, but I was not involved in all that. I just dropped it off at the garage and someone else picked it up (and paid the bill.)



The head is not smooth mirror finish. It has machine marks that can be felt with finger nail.

I have achieved a mirror finish by using flat file and oil before , but that was not this head. And, I cant really experiment with this engine.

Thanks for the advices

I would consider block sanding the head or get it resurfaced again for the use of an MLS.