manual trans does better than the auto's with bigger tires. I have an auto. 265's IIRC, are about 31.7in, where my tires are closer to 33.5. when i had worn 32in bfg's I didn't have my weber, but I imagine I would be happier with the power feel vs now. But i do like my tall tires:)
as for the turbo, that would solve my problem and have thought about it. just looking for the right car to end up on craigslist in my area.
[edit] forgot to tell you that my carb was jetted down by one of the guys here on the forum. I would think you would be fine if going with the dFev, but i don't know for sure.

I had a link from a guy who put a Holley 600 on his 2.6. I can't find the link, but will post if I do.

Cool, I'd like to see how he did that...that's probably a small 4-barrel, and most likely overkill as a replacement carb for the 2.6L Mikuni, but if someone has done it, I'd like to see it. I think the common wisdom is something like a 300-350 cfm 2-barrel for a stock replacement carb, so a 600 Holley would be MUCH more than needed on a stock motor. Heck, I think a 600 Holley would be too big for a StarQuest turbo setup, but one never knows!

My 87 was a basic SQ swap to start with, except for stating with a 14G that came with the donor car. It began as an 87 SQ that, so TB EFI, and was quickly upgraded to 88-89. It now has 2" hardpipes and a gutted pre-cat with 2.5" exhaust the rest of the way back. The BOV pops nicely these days when I shift it.

If you are patient and get your donor parts for the right prices, you will spend no more that you will for the Weber, and have a setup that is time-tested at this point. I got mine for $750 with a trunk full of parts. By the time I sold the extras and parted out what else I didn't need, I got all my money back, making my swap free. (Aside from decisions to rebuild the motor and put a new head on it. But that was relatively cheap for having a new motor in the end.)

I have no real experience with the Weber, or Mikuni for that matter. I just know how easy the SW swap was for me as a relative noob.

My sense is don't do the Weber if you are going to do the turbo, and vice-versa.

Large carb = diminishing returns at the top end with a loss of drivability.

2 barrels ( 2 inches vac) and 4 barrels ( 1.5" vac) are rated at different pressure drops so you cant directly compare the CFM. The large Holley @ brl's are not staged, both throttles open at once.

Holley did sell a version of the Weber that was decent. It was stock on Pintos and Vega's a couple of years back.

If your out of power at 3000 RPM stock the carb probably has a bad secondary diaphragm.

Turbo on a 2.6 through a carb will be a lot more work to get it right, and it will never be as good as a EFI setup.

The carb adaptor TEP sells is a standard piece that was popular before fule injection was common.

Kevin

Don't get me wrong, I LIKE Webers, and I've bought and tuned my share of them. That said, if I was gonna stay carbed, I'd rebuild the Mikuni. It's not hard to rebuild, has very little that goes wrong with it that can't be fixed easy, and is quite cheap to rebuild. The only things I have seen go wrong with one is one mixture duty cycle solenoid went bad, bowl vent valve gone bad, worn out float needle valve, and bad secondary barrel diaphragm, this latter being what I think is wrong with yours. The last rebuild kit I saw was around $100, and did NOT include the above solenoid, bowl vent valve, or secondary diaphragm.

All that said, I'd still go turbo...

I might be able to pick up the EFI parts I need (injectors, intake manifold, TB, fuel feed hose, ECU harness, ECU, ignitor box, injector resistor, air filter/tube/sensors, oil/water separator, etc) for around $200. I'm planning on going to a machine shop and get an estimate on cutting the webbing on the exhaust manifold (for heat stress relief) and getting it resurfaced, and maybe the turbo mating surfaces as well if they have to remove it from the manifold, etc.

As I said, I'm real hesitant to convert to EFI, but so many of you here have said it's a LOT easier to do than it looks, and will work MUCH better than leaving it carbed, etc.

The hardest part of the EFI conversion IMHO is plumbing the fuel pump. I like to use flare connections and putting them on the stock fule line is a PITA when the line is still in the car.

Kevin

Anybody have the Mitsu part number for the secondary diaphragm?

Post your VIN and I'll look it up in the ASA program.

John B.