I've replaced front rotors, pads, and calipers about 2 years ago.

Quite recently, rear shoes were replaced (by a friend) and I started getting a vibration when braking. Suspecting warped drums, I replaced those last week...and still have the issue.

Issue:
When stopping from highway speeds, getting a pretty severe vibration that can shake the whole cab. The steering wheel doesn't shake; it "feels like" it's in the rear.
I vice-gripped the brake line leading to the rear to temporarily disable it while testing, and it didn't vibrate (I know, kinda harsh, but I was frustrated).
Testing by using the e-brake though yielded no vibration (I later found only the passenger-side was engaging w/ the e-brake).
Inspecting the rear brake hardware showed that the adjusting-thingy (that adjusts the shoes when the e-brake is engaged) was rusted locked...so they're definitely not adjusted properly, and the drivers-side e-brake mechanism wasn't even budging.

My next step seems to be replacing the ebrake and adjuster-thingy...but thought I'd check here to see if there may be other opinions/leads?

Thanks for any advice!
Mark

Check your u-joints; but if you're saying the ebrake adjuster is rusted, change that first; just give your driveline a good twist/shake to make sure that's solid.

I unknowingly bent a D/L several years back; didn't know it until the rear pumpkin started wallowing out. Bed just shook like crazy. Keepers let go. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/scared.gif" alt="" />

Once you R&R the adjuster, back up slowly a few times while slowly pulling the ebrake; release; repeat. It'll take a bit of doing, but you'll get there.

I'll try to get the ebrake stuff fixed and adjusted this weekend...will update w/ findings!

update:

Seems to be related to the adjustment...put in some new adjustment things (the spreaders) and it's better (but not 100%). The driver's side ebrake mechanism (bellcase stuff) is rusted locked. PB Blaster couldn't get it free; went ahead and ordered some new components. Once that's in and it can get properly adjusted I'm hoping it clears it up.

On a different note, on the test drive last night the front O2 senser blew out...looks like the nuts disintegrated...ordered some new sensors and nuts too...

Thanks for the update! As for the 02 sensor <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/zombie.gif" alt="" /> I've heard of rust killing a lot of things, but never that. Always a first I guess.

replaced the drivers-side ebrake stuff today (bellcase, crank lever stuff) and got things adjusted right (I think)...seems to have helped, but wasn't able to do an extended test drive. Still a little vibration...but won't know for sure till I go through my commute routine.

You might want to check the operation of the LSPV. Do you have a lift on yer T-100? If so, did you offset the LSPV actuator rod to compensate fer the lift? <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" />

No lift...just bilstein's. Would it need adjusted for that?

Do the LSPV's go bad? I'll have to read up on those, wasn't even part of any considerations...

They can git corroded since it does sit higher in the brake system and collects air in there. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" />

Got my oxygen sensors swapped out w/ some new ones from clubplug.net ($75 ea and free shipping vs. $150 ea from dealer...included gaskets too).



Still haven't got the rear brake issue figured out. Have a feeling I may have to start from scratch again after driving it around w/ new shoes out of adjustment...ruined the shoes. Then new drums w/ the potentially bad shoes and out of adjustment ruined the drums... Finally getting it to adjust makes no difference.
So now I'm thinking I should try new drums and shoes again now that it can be adjusted...?