I'm back. Wish I has as much to offer as those who have helped me here.

1994 T100 3.0L V6

The check engine light is on and the code is complaining about the EGR valve. I pulled the valve and it's free. The diaphragm seems ok. Vacuum lines are ok. Anyone know how to test the thing. What's the voltage into the connector? What resistance should the valve show.

L

Hedrick, go back over to the early Toys section; at the top there is an FSM sticky. One is for a 1993; has both 22RE and 3.0 info in it. That should help ya. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />

Thanks for the pointer.

After cleaning the gunk off the EGR valve I put it back on the engine. I then removed the EGR temp sensor from the side of the valve. A meter showed an open circuit. I then connected a 10K ohm resistor to the connector and reset the computer. So far no check engine light.

I stopped at the dealer where I got the truck with sensor in hand. The dude at the counter said a new one would be 135 dollars. I said I don't need the complete EGR valve just the sensor. His reply was that is the sensor price.

I said it must be a mistake. 135 bucks for temp sensor? I also said please don't tell me what an EGR valve and sensor plus installation would cost.

Looks like I need to make a trip to a junk yard or just run it with the 10K resistor in place. Do I really need an EGR valve to pump exhaust back into the intake? Seams it would run better with real O2 going into the system.

It is designed to run with EGR. It can run too hot and ping with a non-functioning EGR, which isn't good for the engine.