How bad did I screw up today?

The Overview:
- Impact wrench used, thus no torque control on replacement crank bolt
- No oil on replacement crank bolt or washer

The Gory Details:
God Bless You, Larry for all your help on this!! But I wanted to bring this to everyone to see what, if anything, needs to be done to deal with what got done today.

Please understand that by the time the original-issue crank bolt was finally removed (IÆll spare you the details, but it took well over an hour, at the best auto repair shop in the county), I was out of my mind with stress, having a severe PTSD attack! (Being homeless after an accident that should have killed me, I have HUGE survival issues and Rebecca the Raider is my lifeline!)

The shop owner was unwilling to use anything other than an impact wrench to remove and replace the crank bolt:

There were no holes of any kind for any bolts to go through the crank pulley/wheel (as recommended by Frank T HERE , but not possible as noted by dave h. for an early 89 HERE. (There were four adjacent indentations in the crank wheel, but they were only about 1/4" in dia. and only about 1/8" deep.) The shop owner refused to put any belt or anything wedged around the crank pulley because he was too concerned about damaging the pulley or the timing belt housing.

Thus, besides the expected fan and the radiator/fan housing removal, the radiator also had to come out to get an impact wrench onto the crank bolt, and then it actually came out quite easily, THANK GOD!

No engine oil was put on the replacement crank bolt or washer when it was installed (by this time, I was WAY too stressed to remember the oil), and with the impact wrench, there was no way of determining what the torque was.

How badly did I screw up today and what (if anything) needs to be done to fix it? The truck seems to run fine for the moment (though there are four slight cracks in the base of the fan, which could have been there for years).

Blessings! and thank you all for this incredible forum! (Someday IÆll tell you all how this forum bailed my butt out last winter!)

Richard Fairbanks

the bolt needs to be 184NM

did you use the updated bolt?

The new 3500 bolt is LEFT - LL1100A141
The New 3000 bolt is RIGHT - 1101A022


all my crank bolt links

http://www2.pajeroclub.com.au/forum/showthread.php?t=9237

http://autosa.webs.com/apps/forums/topics/show/2056371-mitsubishi-crank-bolt-issue

http://www.4x4wire.com/forums/showflat.p...fpart=&vc=1

http://www.4x4wire.com/forums/showf...&an=0&page=0#Post1196032

my bolt came with loctite on the threads but the mitsu TSB says to use engine oil on the threads.

I gave the info to my machinist/builder and he said he is using loctite - I agreed on condition that he will remove the bolt when the time comes to do the timing belt.

He feels that the oil creates an air seal that builds pressure behind the bolt and pushes it back out - especially when it gets hot.

Yes. I sent a new one to him, along with a new washer.

I've put all mine on dry, using only the factory-supplied-on-the-bolt thread lock. Before I came to this forum I had always used an impact to put it on. You'll likely be fine, as was I. Using a torque wrench to ensure proper value was reached is optimum, but if they hammered it with a decent impact that has sufficient pressure then you hit 130 lb/ft and then some. I would suggest saving some money for a harmonic balancer with the holes in it for the future. That way your shop of choice will be able to do it properly by the FSM.

I took the famous bolt out of a Dodge spirit V6 from the junk yard...give it the right torque no problems at all since then.

Glad (well not really I guess) to hear someone else had gone through the same hell as I did. I broke 4 extractors off in that damn bolt while I was trying to get it out. Hopefully the new version will last longer.