So I whent down to sears monday morning to purchase a tire for the one that took a dump on me this weekend.
My road home is riddled with potholes and washboard bumps.
Got a hole in the whalmart special passenger tires that are on my Sportage.
I purchased one 235/75/15LT BFG All-Terrain Ta KO to compliment the new one I had already been using as a spare.
They told me it was going to be 4 hours till they could get to my car since it was the winter tire rush season. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif" alt="" />
So I took it down to another shop that ended not being open for another hour. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif" alt="" /> got pissed and went and had my oil changed over at jiffy lube. Got back to the shop from earlier and had the two BFG's mounted on the rear of the Sportage with Wahlmart specials still on the front.
But the shop torqued off one of my studs when putting the wheels back on. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif" alt="" /> so I was super pissed.

So I said forget it and took my Sportage to Napa to have them replace the nonexistant brakes and this is what I was quoted.

$1100.00 for the following work.
Front Axle: New Brake pads, Rotors, Bearings and Seals, CV- Boots.
Rear Axle: New Shoes, Brake Lines and Stud Bolt.

Does this sound fair to you, considering my location in Alaska and the work to be done?

That's probably about right if you actually do need all those parts. The seals for the bearings aren't cheap. Are the bearings making any noise? Do the CV boots have tears in them?
I'd check with some other places and see what they have to say.

And I'd have the shop replace the bolt that they broke at their cost.
And it's probably cheaper to replace the entire cv axle than it is to replace the boot.

It would be interesting to get a breakdown of each item.
It sounds a little high to me but I do all my own work.
I would shop around and ask different people for their choice of mechanic. If I have to have work done, I have one that charges about 20-40 percent less than any other shop around and does very good work. He will also let you bring in your own parts.
Keep us posted on what is going on.

Everet <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/patriot.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />

I worked for Sears Auto Center for years. I just left Sears little over a year ago for a local family owned shop across the street. I can tell you that they probably ARE backed up for the winter rush up there. I live in Idaho so we're behind you for the winter rush. The brake job is more than a standard brake service. Although most Sears shops have the OTC brake late (On The Car). means they don't have to take your rotors off the vehicle to turn them. Although depending on how much brake service they do, they may or may not have a newer lathe that auto compensates. and using the older ones that don't is a mother, so they usually will push for bearing service to take the rotor off.. honestly. you probably need bearing service anyway. The price sounds about right for Sears, They are usually a bit high, but usually good service. Not all Sears stores are alike.. sure the stores are the same, but it's the people at the counter and in the backshop that vary in honesty and knowledge anywhere you go.. not just sears.. so if they do a crappy job, it's not sears as a whole. They, as all chains stores, will have their good and bad. usually overall though, they hire young fresh techs that they train personally their way.. Their training goes paralell with ASE Cert tests. I would've stayed if they treated their techs better as pay's concerned. and they pushed us to find stuff wrong with cars which isn't wrong, but there's a line you don't cross.. a 30k mi altima won't have much wrong with it.. is what it is. that's why I left, but their service to customers over all is great, their price is 'reasonably' high.. you'll find lower prices, but not by much, unless its a private mechanic with no overhead (can be risky). If you find an honest private mechanic, you get the best service at the best price.

I would say to them OK at $1100, but I want to stay in a position where I can see that you are doing ALL the work you have quoted for, and I would like to see ALL the new, and undamaged removed items for comparison before the new items are fitted.

Keep the bastards honest....

Thanks for the responses.
Front Brake Pads: Negligence on my part û Driving with pads totally worn out.

Front Rotors: Negligence on my part û Pads rubbing metal on metal of the rotors.

Front Bearings & Seals: Excessive wear û Off road driving, Can hear wining noise from bearings, river crossing, and the fact that I have improper weight distribution because of wheel size and offset. Slight leakage is noticeable from this problem area.

Rear Brakes: Negligence on my part û Never had any rear brake assist since I purchased the vehicle, was too poor to have them serviced. Brake lines are not pushing fluid due to corrosion and blockage, fluid at the back of the brake drums is evidence of a leak.

Wheel Stud: Mechanic error û I had the tire and wheel swapped out, and the mechanic over torque the nut till stud fatigue. I had an appointment to take the Sporty back to have it replaced free of cost, but was too pissed to even look at them. So I drove to Napa for maintenance.

2002 Sportage: Maintenance is being performed over at Napa right now. She has about 60,000 miles on her and is in need of the mentioned work. I just didnÆt expect it to cost so much. Last year I had the Timing chain/belt and water pump replaced along with a new fan and fan clutch.

Conclusion: My Sporty has been in need of the attention, but I didnÆt have the money to service all the problem areas on this used vehicle at one time. So IÆm taking it in the pocket after all this time.

sears have rules to torque the wheels to manufacturer spec. ours is 76ft lbs. even at 100ft lbs mine don't break, but that tight could warp rotors. Accidently torqued them to 100ftlbs out of habbit.. most all domestic cars are 100ft lbs. Alot of times the shop that serviced your lugs prior was the one at fault cause they will go on crooked and will go on all the way. as they go on, the stud gets hot enough to make the threads soft and plyable. then when they cool it sets like that.. next service, the tech takes the lugs off and it breaks off on the him.. not always the case though.