ok got a Idle Air Control Valve and put it in today and it still bucks at a hill climb until you press more into the gas then it smooths out. abit of a rough idle also. now i have not tested the new used part yet since i have been sick ass a dog . took pretty much took all had today to change it out today. but will do it soon. how i tested since i don't have a tester harness is have someone turn the car on not the motor just the key and see it moves or adjusts. the other did not or just barely after cleaning it. have not on this one. so i guess i am asking if this part works out ideas on where to look next.

iirc the ISC/IAC & ECU takes time to relearn the idle for your engine but I might be wrong (someone correct me here). You may want to give it a day or two before you start looking for another solution.

sounds a lot like a low speed vac leak, a biggie. THat will give you a high idle, with probably a miss if it's in one cylinder runner, generally crappy lean idle and off idle (until the air flow rises high enough the leak is masked by volume).

A leaking intake changeover valve shaft will do that kind of leak, and massive engine damage may be close behind, so it's a must check. It's the thingy under the cover that is a vac pot linked to a crank arm linked to a shaft running front to back thru the lower intake runners. Do you hear any fluttering sound at cruise speeds?

Before you go too crazy buying and replacing I would spend the $6.00 and replace your crankcase pressure valve. There is some advise on how to get to it with out taking the plenum off on this site. It seem to cure some of my idle ales.

Thanks guys for the info so far. Fasteddy what is a fluddering sound?? i will say there is no high idle it runs fine in park it stumbles just a bit when you put it in drive then its fine. runs smooth until you get to a hill and slowly try to give it more gas to go up it. you keep apply to the gas and it smooths out. if you romp it rev it up it seems fine also. I think i know what you are talking about when you say intake changeover valve shaft. i will take the cover off as soon as i can and take a look . I will say before my dad gave it to me he told me it has been doing what its doing for over a year. and it does it he says while slowly building up speed to get on the interstate also then is fine. Now i have done a search and i think i have proven i am total crap at it <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" /> but i do not see the post on how to change the pcv with out taking the plenum off. That would be great if it can be done that way.And now as i think about i asked my dad and he said he never had it changed in the 4 or 5 years he has it . so the lord only knows when it was done. So better check into that.

Fasteddy is one of these 2 pictures what you are talking about. thinking the second one is what you are talking about.

2nd

like i said i don't here any fluddering sound at all. and how do i tell if this is working or not. and if anyone has changed the pcv on a 3.5 with out tearing everything apart can they give me in detail how they did. thank you ..

Getting it off was easy. I used a socket with an extender and uni joint. Putting it back on was a bit more of a task. I used a bit of hose and attached it to the valve. I held the valve in place with my fingers. This was just to get it started. After it was started I just slipped the socket on it again tightened it up. It took a bit of time but worth not tearing down the top components.

Aaron, I got your voicemail last night. I'd been at a buddy's concert and had left my phone in the truck. I'm at work right now, but I'll call you later today.

My suggestion would be to get some new vaccuum hose and, ONE BY ONE, replace all of them. Just for good measure, ya know...

And Angelo's hose trick works. I've done it that way too.