That said, I would think that bolt would be hardened steel but perhaps someone can shed more light here?

Ok, I just got done doin the same thing on my 95SR. I bought the set of crio bits from home depot, these might be good for other softer metals but for some reason are JUNK for the type of metal in that crank bolt. From there i went through two more bits of simular quality with minimal success. I finaly broke down and called my local specialty tool suply store McFadden dale's. They sold me an excelent quality S&D HD Black and Gold bit that went through it like a hot knife through butter. I was amazed to find that this bit was Just a high speed steel bit, however it was a very well manufacturered tool. The bit did cost me $35 but I would have saved the $100 i spent on all those other bits had i started with this one in the first place. Yet another leson learned, sometimes the manufacturer is more important than the materials used. And when it comes to tools ALWAYS buy American made! Try to find a specialty tool store in your area like Ace, Fasteners, Fastenal, Mcfadden Dales, ect. And make sure you get the right tap, I went through the same mess with that issue as well. The tap i used was about 50 bucks, but was well worth it and once again a nothing special U.S. made tool did the job with ease when all the overseas "special" tools made from the "best" materials just broke or striped. Good luck bro, and dont hesitate to pm me if things get bad.

The good steel better be in the extractor. Ever try to drill one out? Start the hole with a 1/8" or smaller, and step up in size. I have the best luck with spiral fluted extractors.

I find that if I put the extractor under torque just short of strip out, then tap the extractor sharply, it will break loose the fastener stub most of the time.