Well, I finally got around to ordering poly bushings to replace the shot ones on my 87 4WD. The rears have been poly since I did the springs, but the fronts are original, and you can see light where they are supposed to be, plus the steering has gotten pretty loose. I can't complain, they've been on there for 203,000 miles.

So, for people who have done this, what tips can you offer?

Do I need to un-crank the torsion bars, or is it sufficient to jack it up, maybe with the droop bumpstops removed?

I know bushings can be a pain to get out, but I'm hoping for the best. The truck has zero rust, and when I did the leaves, the old bushings were so dry rotted, they just fell out in one piece; these look to be in the same condition.

I got the Energy Suspension kit(s), and there aren't any metal sleeves. Are there any factory pieces I need to re-use, or is that appropriate?

I'm sure I have more questions, so I'll post those as I think of them.

Thanks in advance for any insights.

i recently did the uppers on my truck and it is a real pita to get the bushings out. the torch was my friend. and some kerosene. i cant imagine doing it with out taking the torsion bars out. other than getting the ushings out, it wasnt too hard.

IMHO, amongst the toughest bushings to replace. If I remember correctly (been 14 years), the lower bushings are captures between two washers that are pressed onto an inner sleave. I had a very hard time getting the washers off the sleeve w/o bending the pressed part of teh sleave (much thinner). So the washers didn't stay on the sleave as well as before the work, but everything still seemed fine.

You'll definitely notice a difference.

Torching out the bushings is the easiest method I have found, a hand held propane/map gas torch is all you need.

You will need to make note/mark the alignment washers front and rear on the lower A-arms, so you can get the alignment close enough to get to a shop.

You will have to count the number of turns or the number of threads on the torsion bars to be able to set them back to the right height. You should also pick up/order 1 new torsion bolt from the dealer, before you start. They can/do break, even when not rusty.

You have to reuse the oem washers and sleeves, so don't tear them up trying to get them off/out of the bushings.

Once you get the bushings re-assembled, if you freeze them overnight, they are far easier to press back into the A-arms, I didn't need a press, just a large bench vise and some large sockets.

If this is your DD, I would recommend doing the lowers one weekend and the uppers another, or over a long 3day weekend, it is very time consuming.

Boo. Nice of them to include that in the instructions.

Any chance the sleeves/washers can be ordered separate from the rubber from the dealer?

You might give the dealer a call, but the sleeves are glued in to the oem bushings, and the washers are held on by flared ends on the sleeves. Chances are the oem replacements are the same, and is why they cost around $50 each. It is a bit of a PITA breaking the bushings down, but not impossible.

If you have to have the truck done over the weekend, you might grab a set of used A-arms from a wrecking yard, or someone off of craigslist. You might give Davez Off-road a call, they may some laying around, and they are just outside Placerville.

^^^^^^^^^ Brilliant idea! <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" />

OK, well I got the lowers in today. All the above advice is what I went with and it worked great. I had a friend with a press, but when I got the A-arms out and saw the design, I decided to go with the torch instead. If you're careful, you can even re-attach the washers to the center sleeve. I went for a quick spin to see how off the alignment is, and it's not too bad. It's off, but no so much I'd feel dangerous taking it to the shop when I'm done. I can't tell much of a difference yet, although turn-in seems a little crisper.

The uppers look like they'll be more of a challenge, what with the staked nuts on the ends and all. I may try tomorrow or save that for another weekend.

Fortunately it's no longer my 100% DD, but I still hate leaving jobs half-finished.

65? and sunny and clear. I think we're the only spot on the planet with nice weather right now.

Might be cold, but we're not sideways nor evacuating. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" />

Good to hear how that went. If you do the uppers, by all means post up!

OK, the job is done, other than taking it in for an alignment tomorrow.

You guys who said you'll notice a difference? Man, you weren't kidding.

The steering response is night and day, and I actually (accidentally) got very sideways on my road trying it out. I'm going to have to learn the limits all over again.

This job is doable with just basic hand tools. The only things I had to buy were 19 and 22 millimeter box end wrenches. Thank god for California trucks. Whatever else you'll say about this place, cars just don't rust here. Both adjuster bolts came out no problem whatsoever, and a lot of the bolts still have their factory anodizing on them under the dirt.

The uppers were probably more challenging than the lowers, both due to accessibility and the torsion bars being attached. Plus, that whole upper cast pivot piece was a puzzle in terms of how to remove it. I wound up drilling the smaller of the two bushings (frontmost one) until it could be pried out, then removed the pivot and burned the other one out.

I may have made a mistake by not lubing the bushings on one side (as per the FSM instructions which I later realized only applied to the factory rubber bushings) but it shouldn't be as bad to go back and lube it now that I know what to expect. That, and I think I got the torsion bar on that side one tooth off, anyway.

I don't think I'd care to repeat this project. I think I'd just save up the money to let a shop do it. What a PITA.