In another post here titled "3.2 DOHC Valve Cover" - a member named slappy discussed issues he had getting one of the valve cover allen-head bolts out. The brake booster was in the way. His Rodeo was a 1999 model.

Has anyone removed the drivers side valve cover on a '95 Rodeo - 3.2l without having to remove the brake vacuum booster and/or master cylinder?

Thanks for your time.

I've done it on a '94 3.2L without removing the brakebooster. It's been a while so I don't remember the details but it is possible.

Rodeo Clown:

Thanks for the information. I appreciate it.

I have a fuzzy old memory that people who triumphed over this problem in the past used a combination of universal joints and/or wobble attachments to reach the bolt you are talking about. It may be required to do this with 1/4" equipment.

Good Luck,
Michael

Recently in another Isuzu Forum - Jerry Lemond(JLEMOND) confirmed that the brake booster removal is on '98 and up only.

As Michael Clark pointed out - you likely need lots of small swivel sockets/etc to get into all of the tight places.

I got thru this w/o the aid of flexible extensions/adapters. Used an L-shaped allen head 5mm for the bolt all the way back on the lower side. All others were removed with a 5mm allen socket - 3/8" drive and various lengths of extension

There are actually 11 allen head bolts on the '95 Rodeo 6VD1 3.2l drivers side valve cover - likely same for '94 as both of those years are combined into one FSM. Haynes manuals indicates 10 allen heads and one grounding bolt on valve cover - wrong. The "11th" bolt is on the back side of the VC between it and the firewall.

Haynes/FSM removal installation procedure OK - but I found removing a few additional items made reinstallation of VC with new VC gasket much easier. In my opinion - it's quite easy to knock the VC gasket out of place on reinstallation. The valley on the VC that the gasket rides in is VERY shallow - unlike those on Honda Accords/Civics. I thoroughly cleaned all surfaces and used sealant applied along the path in the valley the gasket rides in using a tooth pick. Use a very small amount. The idea is to help hold the gasket in place.

On another forum - a suggestion was made to remove the engine lift bracket on the drivers side exhaust manifold. I found the nuts to be on very tight and difficult to remove. It's my opinion that this piece is not an obstruction at all.

Here are the extra steps I took to facilitate this task.

- Remove throttle body altogether. On another forum one poster said he simply removed the 4/12mm TB bolts and lifted TB out of the way. There's not enough extra length on the 2 TB hoses to do that in my opinion. Replace both TB hoses on installation with 3/8" heater hose as you will likely have to cut both off with a razor blade if they've been on any length of time. Fel Pro TB gasket 61034 works fine.
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- There is a metal "y-pipe" in the area of the TB. One of them has a 4" run of hose that connects to the left side of TB. The other one is hanging out over the top of the drivers side valve cover and that piece connects to the side of the large air tube that connects to the TB. This pipe in my opinion will cause grief on reinstallation of VC as it's definitely in the way.

- Removing this pipe and pulling aside provides much better access to the VC. This involves removing the igniters mounted on top of motor and the base plate underneath. All of this is quite simple. Disconnect elect. connections and remove bolts. You simply set the igniters aside - more to the left. It's just nuts-n-bolts.

I also used a Fel Pro VC gasket kit that came with the 6 spark plug tube grommets. These grommets pull off easily once VC is removed.