Does anybody know about how much free clearance space there is on the drivetrain for a 5spd 90s xt-cab pickup?

I'd like to tuck it up out of the way as much as possible, but would prefer to minimize the amount of body lifting I do. E.g. can you get 1.5-2"?

Where are the typical interference areas? I know the back of the motor/bell housing doesn't have much space at the tunnel, and I assume the shifters must be pretty close.
The truck bed will be removed.

related - is there any real harm in lifting the back but not the motor end? I could see this adding some tress to the motor mounts by twisting them a bit, but the 2-3 degree angle from only 2" over the 3.5'(?) span seems pretty minimal.

I think maybe an inch or so, easy to find out, unbolt the t-case mount and jack up the back end and see how far it goes up before hitting.

For the unequal F/R lift, see below for some considerations:
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/ForSale/MotorMount.shtml#MM_FAQ2
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/ForSale/MotorMount.shtml#MM_FAQ3

Thanks Roger. I'd read your article on doing the drivetrain lift, just a little unlear on whether the space may be any different on the 90s trucks. Comparing the 93 Ext-cab to my 88 4Runner, it looks liek all te hmain players are in about teh same place, just not sure if the floor pans are a much different height at the tunnel etc.

I figured I'd have to pay attention to the CSB but didn't realize te hangle would be a problem, good note on that.
I wonder, though, if that thing could be shimmed to drop a little wit ha built-in angle at angle like we do axle perches to accomodate the angle. I'll probably add a leaf spring lift, or at least longer shackles, so that issue would come up anyway.
Changing to a single long shaft would be an option as well, but I feel like that only increases the chances of banging on something, that 65" long sucker would be really exposed.

good timing....i am thinking about this as well. i want to switch to a 4.7 gear drive case and get a budbuilt with like 2" of lift, since i have a 1" bl. that will make a HUGH difference under the truck. my other concern is the length of a v6 adapter and gear drive case vs the chain drive case...but that is for another thread....

i have read that many people just loosen the motor mounts and raise the transfer case and then tighten up the motor mounts again and all is good. i have an electric fan so this shouldnt be a problem. it might be with a stock fan. let us know how it works out!

Hm, another good point - theoretically it is doing 2 bad things, tipping the top of teh fan blades into the radiator (yeah, not a lot of clearance there) and also changing the angle of air movement so it is no long straight on.
But again, 2 deg should be minimal...

However I think Roger is right, it's really just a matter of unbolting the rear mounts and lifting it up to see.

Problem with CSB, or rather that little upper shaft is that it typically has one u-joint and w/ 1 u-joint, you must run that shaft with 0 degree angle on that joint for no vibration. IOW, it must be dead in line with the t-case output flange or in whatever alignment it is now. If t-case is raise, CSB would need to be raised to match in most cases.

Does anybody know if there is a chart/source somewhere that lists the length of the various stock Toy driveshafts?

I'm now seriously considering shortening the wheelbase on this truck, by moving the rear springs/axle forward maybe 12-19" or so (after ditching the bed of course).
If I do, obviously the CSB will go away;
I'm wondering if I might get lucky and be able to either re-use just the main shaft (w/ CV) from this truck (unlikely), or at least get a junkyard one from a different model Toy (e.g. A/T 4runner?) that will bolt up - much cheaper than having one fabbed.