Have a 96 x-cab 3.4L 4x4 T, will a rear out of a 93 4x4 longbed T work?

Anyone?

Maybe the rear out of an earlier tundra will work?

They should all three (your original included) be the same, gear ratio notwithstanding. I'd measure the perch width on the tundra axle, since I've never matched one up in person, but everything I know about them says they're plug and pray. There's some piddly stuff different about the early Tundra axles, like the orientation of the hard brake line T fitting, but as long as you go with 4wd, like you mentioned, they'll both be sprung over and should bolt right up...again...gears...and little headaches like that brake fitting...notwithstanding.

Or do you just need the guts and not the tube?
Then yes. You can swap that stuff back and forth all day long.

Nah need the whole sucker, tube is messed up somehow or another and the seal will not hold back the gear oil. Not withstanding the shaft despite being replaced 2x now is fine for a bit then begins to wander inside the tube-my guess is where the bearing rides is oblonged a bit.

Having never swapped one of these axles in before, I am not sure-but arent the gears just plug and play no setup or anything?

measure the perches to be surest, but all the other parts swap, have the same thread pitch, etc.

it's almost that simple to remove the gearset - the axle shafts need to be backed out.

pull the brakes, undo the bolts at the backing plate, slide the axles back. unbolt the driveshaft, kick it loose, undo the bolts holding the 3rd member, kick that some more, try not to drop it as you wrestle it out. installation is the opposite of removal.

i set a milk crate or a cinder block up under where the third wants to fall out, gives a stopping point in hoisting it out and back in.

you're right, no gear setup needed provided it matches the front.

you don't just want to get a full-float diamond axle and be done with it, huh.

Thanks for the info.

Diamonds cool but at that price it aint worth it for a truck that mostly stays on the road.

Im convinced the axle tube is egged out where the bearings ride, I replaced everything imaginable and the fact the seals just wont stop leaking leads me to think Im right.Kinda a last hurrah, if this dont cure it I sell the truck to anyone who will give me a decent price.

The full float seals tight as a drum, basically being front steering spindles mounted in a non-steering configuration. I haven't wept a drop out of it. Splintered the shaft, but that was a short between the seat than the right pedal caused that to happen. Going with the Diamond housing rather than the upgrade kit eliminates the seep point between the stock axle tube and caliper bracket.

Is it a street truck that sees any appreciable load-carrying, maybe some towing? If nothing else, the extra bearing is less wear and tear and tons easier to service. I was married for ten years; I can justify just about any project and the tools to go with it.