Does anyone have a current place to send a Gen 2 ECU [3.0 12 valve] for rebuilding if it's possible. I replaced my dead ECU for a working junkyard unit since I lost ign. coil control a few weeks ago. I'd like to get my old ECU fixed as a back-up. Learned how to check ECU and Distributor harness, and found the hidden "ground #8" for the ECU next to the blower motor housing where it's totally NOT easy to get at if needed. Also learned that Mitsu added different engine ecu grounds after that, 2 of them, and they're in way easier places to clean, check/verify[Sometimes it sucks being a first year production vehicle! <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/rolleyes.gif" alt="" />]
Also, is anyone in need of a post on replacing the heaterbox or heater core in their Gen 2 Monty? I recently replaced the heaterbox with a new one, since my original core finally started leaking bad a few weeks before Christmas. Could NOT find a heatercore for a Gen 2, only Gen 1s. The heaterbox was the last one listed in dealer part distr. network in the USA. The new core in the brand new heaterbox is aluminum and one piece, not brass with several hose clamped sections like the old factory part. And aside from not being clogged like the old part, it heats up much faster than the brass part ever did. I learned some interesting stuff about removing the dash during R&R of the heaterbox, and nothing broke in the way of aging plastic, which is always a bonus. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/drunk.gif" alt="" />

Anyway, let me know, as I took a few pictures of the process, and still have the old 'box as a reference part if needed for this forum.

When I used to be in the business there was a place in Texas that did that. Dallas??? Not sure. Maybe you could ask at some repair shops in your area or check the web.

Good luck

It's in Houston , Houston. Google ECU. I can't remimber the name of the place but theyv'e been around awhile. It's like 300 bucks .
If your circuit boards hasn't been destroyed by acid you might find somebody who can just replace the capacitors. That's usually what goes bad and leaks on these.
???Maybe somebody has done that on here and can tell us what kind/size/part number of those capacitors???

Depending on what died, it might be a simple clean and re-cap.

I'd say pop the cover off and look for corrosion, bulged caps, or exploded IC's.

If you want, I could take a look at it , but since I don't have a V6 all I could do is a general rework and replace the caps and coil drivers if they're dead.
I work for peanuts, so it wouldn't be that much.

Lmk if you're interested.

Any idea whats goes out in them? is it the caps like the 1g dsm computers that leak?

The foam ones or the type that needs the shell removed?

I pulled the case apart before I ever ordered a junkyard replacement. Nothing burned, leaking or otherwise looks wrong with the circuit board and its components. I lost the driver/final stage control for the ignition coil, but no melted parts on the board, so I don't know if the ECU is fixable or not. I'll try looking up the Houston rebuilder, thanks

If you trace in from the connector you can find which device is the ignition driver. Get the number off it and buy a replacement from Mouser, Digikey or such. The devices that are not available in country are the low, long black output transistor that are grouped together. These control fuel pump, AC and such. They get scrounged from other ECUs.
It is possible that the failure might not be in the output but in the chip that controls the output. When I find that I consider the board dead.

Talk to Nick, 239-849-0981 @ AV-Pro Company in Fort Myers Beach, Fl.and explain you problem. I sent my ECM to him $150 and one day service.

The type that pay down student loans! <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/lol.gif" alt="" />
I've got a source for the dual drivers you speak of, new.
One of the distributors I deal with specializes in obsolete parts.