This project is different than most. The goal is to make a utilitarian 4x4 that is capable off-road, streetable, and still functional.

Here is what I started out with:



-Super Clean, very stock Raider on 31x10.5s. 30k on reman'd engine, spotless in and out.

This is where I am now 40k miles and 4 years later:



- Blew a head gasket, hydro-locked the engine with only 70k on it since being rebuilt. Put another rebuilt engine in with less than 1k since rebuild. (Spent $1k also, credit card)
- 2" Roger Brown 4 Crawler Body Lift
- 1.25" Front Torsion Bar Crank
- Superwinch font Manual Hubs
- Custom Slider and Bumpers courtesy of Sandhill Raider's Off-Road Products
- Painted LS Alloys Black
- Mitsubishi Grill and Head Lamp Surrounds
- 34x9.5-15 Bias Ply Super Swamper TSLs
- Safety Strobe Lights
- Cobra 29 LTDST w/ Magnet Mount Antenna
- Crammed with tools and parts in the back
- Lots of dents and body damage from wheeling

I spend at least 1 day a month wheeling my truck if not more (sometimes 3+ days a month). Its sort of a requirement since I organize the Forest Service Work Days on NC4X4. We do anything from putting up guard railing, to picking up trash, putting up trail diamonds, etc. We also have to do it safely, so we have cones/signs etc so the ATVs/Dirtbikes don't end up killing each other (we have had near misses) or hitting our vehicles parked on the side of the trail.

So in all reality this truck has to be a utility vehicle, while being capable off-road, and still be a daily driver. Here are my current future plans:

- 4.88 gear swap (from brown truck)
- Lincoln Locked Front (Welded)
- Toyota Rear Lift Shackles
- Front Torsion Bar Adjustment
- Q78-15 Bias Ply Super Swamper TSLs (35.5x10.8)
- Front/Rear Window Strobes
- Utility Sticker Package
- Front Bumper Cone Holder (removable)

My main concern is Welding the front, and moving to an almost 36" tire. The 4.88s will take care of gearing, but I don't want to be snapping CVs. I have gotten used to wheeling in 2-Low so I would minimize the stress on the front if/when I weld it up. So I only use the front locked when needed. If I wasn't welding the front I wouldn't be too worried above CVs etc.

I also don't want to lift it much higher, because it still needs to be accessible on the trails during work days etc. Also the tools (floor jack, jack stands, wheel chocks, etc) need to be accessed in case of trail repairs etc. And as most know without cranking the t-bars more or going to 3" Body lift there aren't many more options.

Posting this here for feedback, and to post pictures as I get stuff done. I work on a very limited budget so it will be one piece at a time. Right now I am focusing on the utility "look" of the vehicle, while the 4.88 swap and Lincoln Locking will be done around March if it all works out.

Looks like a clean rig. Why not install the gen 2 v6 front suspension and diff. I dont think you will have a issue breaking a cv with those.

40K?? That's some serious coin..

Gen 1V6 front diff will handle 35's...But you'll have to source another set of 4.88's if your donor diff is from a 4cyl.

Also if sticking with Gen 1 parts the v6manual CV's are a bit larger than auto on the diff side.

You should break up all that red by some liberal application of bedliner coating (lower body panels, raised portion of the hood, roof, bumpers, wiper arms, mirrors). Not only would it be functional, I think it'll also add to the "utilitarian" look you're going for.

Q78s are big tires. I had them on a 72 GMC 1/2 ton I owned years ago. On road driving your 88 would really be a pooch.

What brand coating did you use? I like the look, also im wondering if applied on the hood if it could take the heat from my turbo...uuummm

FWIW, it took a welded diff, 4.3, 33X13.50 swampers, and full throttle to break a cv on my Raider.

I like those skinnys!!!!!

Bought a 1-gal can of Rustoleum brand truck bed coating at a local auto parts store chain (Auto Zone or Advance Auto). I learned from the first time I used this stuff, it's not worth cleaning the brushes and paint tray with acetone, so I buy disposable brushes, rollers, and paint trays. Also got a roll of blue painter's tape for masking purposes. I clean the surface with soap and water, wipe it dry, wipe the area down with rubbing alcohol, let it dry, mask it off, then paint. I usually end up putting down two coats before I'm done, and that's usually been enough. Then put the disposable brush, roller, and paint tray in a plastic bag, and throw it in the trash. Make sure to apply the stuff when it's relatively warm outside, I think there's a temp range on the can.

Was talking 40k miles of course, clarified that.

Finding a 4cyl truck with 4.88s is rare enough, finding a V6 with 4.88s is even rarer. I might was well look for some 5.29s in that case. 5.29s plus some 2.85s in the Tcase would be nicccceee.



With 4.62s I would agree. Moving to 4.88s would make having the Q78s similar to my current setup with the 34"s and 4.62s. Either way Q78s will be my last addition to the truck when everything else is done. I hear Q78s don't grip as hard as the Special Service 34x9.5s, but I don't think it will be that huge of a difference.



Good to know. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" /> It took me a while to get used to the skinnys, but the grew on me quick. They dig/grip like there is no tomorrow, and do help a ton in the traction department. Where people locked f/r with radial M/Ts couldn't make it, the 34x9.5s have done it no problem with only a rear LSD.

And as far as the black bed liner goes I have been thinking about if for a while. I may not go as far as you did (which does look cool), but I will get some on there. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" />

Only problem with skinnys is the potential for severe body damage from trees/rocks/ground/etc rubbing up against the sides of the truck when you are in sticky situations. Wide tires stick out, and keep your body off of that stuff.

I think skinnys with total exo armor would be great.