IÆm just about to replace my first u-joint on my 96 XJ. ThereÆs now a fairly bad thumping at twice the rate of wheel rotation coming from somewhere in the front left suspension / drive assembly. Looking at it you can tell the u-joint is toast with rust dust between the cap and the body. IÆm almost positive thatÆs where all the sound is coming from.

So, once this gets underway I want to try to get it done asap, so IÆve got a couple more questions before I fire everything up.


1) Where if anywhere can I go to rent an impact wrench?

2) Can anyone confirm that the hub nuts on my trucks Dana 30 axle is either 34mm or 36mm? IÆve been told both.

3) Are there any things I should be replacing as I work my way into the u-joints? Like the axle shaft oil seals or maybe other gaskets or something?

Thanks for the help

1) Don't really need one, soaking every bolt in WD40 or PB blaster a day or two before starting and a 24" breaker bar will do just fine. Don't know where to rent one, maybe a place that rents construction equipment as you will also need an air compressor/tank to run the impact.

2) http://www.4x4wire.com/forums/showflat.p...rue#Post1222562

3) Axle shaft oil seals require that you pull the carrier. Nothing else to replace there other than the ujoints... maybe the balljoints if they're bad and you're REALLY motivated.

Fred R.

Thanks again for the advice Fred. When you say 'pull the carrier' I think I know what you mean. But, just to be sure, you're not implying I'm gonna need some kind of pulling tool correct?

Nope! He means you have to go to the middle of the axle and completely pull all the gears out so the axles can be removed.. So if them seals ain't leaking most of us leave them alone.
Big JIm <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/pfft.gif" alt="" />

Good to hear. And I'll def be leaving those seals alone.

I've gotten advice that I can get the joint out without actually having to undo that 36mm nut. Guy says just remove tire, caliper, rotor, the 3 13mm 12-pt bolts from the rear then pull the axle. Honestly, if I can do it this way I'd rather b/c I don't like the idea of someone standing on my brakes for resistance.

So everybody, can it really be done this way? I don't want to be pounding on something to come off when I still needed to break loose that 36mm.

Thanks

I've in the middle here and dong fairly well so far. Everythings off including the large 36 mm nut and the three 13mm 12pt bolts from the rear. I've been soaking everything down with PB really well since yesterday and I've begun to pound on the next part to get it off, but I thought I should ask some advice here since I've been pounding fairly hard and nothing is giving way yet.

Below is a pic of where I'm at now. As I've not had any of this apart before I'm sort of just feeling my way around here. Where I've drawn the red line is where I think the pieces should separate, and where I've drawn the green lines is where I've been pounding with my BFH, from the back side, although nothings budged so far.

My concern is that when I'm pounding it's shaking the entire suspension system and everything, and not coming off, which makes me think I've missed a bolt or something. Looking at my pics can anybody confirm that I just need to keep soaking at the red line with PB and pounding with my BFH?

I've got a kind of pry bar I could stick where the red line is. Should I try to pound the pry bar in a little and then pry the pieces apart?

Thanks

Do ya see that DENT in the end of the axle? That means you need a PULLER to take the hub off of the axle.
I would NEVER think of prying on that thing!
Big JIm <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/pfft.gif" alt="" />

Thanks BigJim.

More than one person has told me to get new hubs so I might as well. Considering I really don't do much off-roading what hubs should I get to replace these? Run of the mill at AutoZone will do, or should I look for a specific brand? Like when I replaced my front track bar I went with a Moog. I'd like to do something similar in quality with my hubs.

Thanks

I kinda go along with the "if it ain't broke, don't fix it" view on auto repairs.
Ya do know there are A models that still have the big bearings in them. As a general rule wheel bearings are greatly oversized for their actual duty.
But if that lights your flame... I see no reason to not go with the AutoZone, or other shop, ones.
Big JIm <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/pfft.gif" alt="" />

X2 on this, especially if they are pretty rusty and it's probably the first time they're coming off since the factory. I've removed them so many times when I was running the D30 in my jeep that they just slid out after removing the 13mm bolts & 36mm nut. Don't want to pry on the wheel mounting surface as that might mess up the wheel bearing. Also, unless you're running oversized tires or wheel pretty regularly you probably don't need to replace the wheel bearings unless there is some definate play in them. Hope this helps. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" />

Fred R.