I know this has probably been covered 100 times, but searching this forum is always a real PITA!! I just ordered a 3" budget lift with shackles for my 99 Cherokee. I already have some 31" mudders for it. I need to know tips, tricks, and problems with installing the lift before I even jack it up. I want to have it done as fast as possible without having to keep coming back here to find out why it's not going right. Thanks in advance.

Use the search box that has "Google Custom Search" as it gives better search results for the forums.

But, my only problems with my Cherokee lift were having to add longer brake lines.

You do need to jack the front high in order to have working room.

For a 3" XJ lift, here's some hints:

Swap the pitman arm with one from a ZJ, it is 1" lower than the XJ, and 2" lower than a TJ arm and will help prevent bump steer. 99% of the aftermarket XJ/YJ/YJ drop pitman arms are actually stock ZJ pitman arms with the Mopar part number ground off!

Remove the rear sway bar if equipt. If you don't, with certain wheel offsets, the ends of the bar will rip out the sidewalls of the tires on bumps.

Extend the front sway bar links. You can buy longer ones, or cut the stock ones and extend them with steel tubing welded in to extend them the same amount as the lift.

You may need to drop the transmission crossmember to make the rear driveline stop vibrating. About 1" will usually do it. Simple spacers and longer bolts are needed. Flat plate spacers are less prone to getting twisted off if the crossmember hits a rock.

The kit should come with directions for relocating the axle end of the front trac bar. Post here for further instructions if it doesn't.

For a real budget lift, ZJ V8 "Upcountry" package front springs with double insulators under the springs will lift the average XJ about 1-1/2" maybe up to 2" depending on accessories. If you add a winch or a heavy bumper, the ZJ V8 springs will level it out to stock height.

For rear springs on a budget, it's best to get an add-a-leaf that extends the full length of the stock spring, if they are shorter than the eyes, the stock spring will warp near the ends and look like a upside down W. For a better lift, replace the springs with a good set made with a "Military Wrap"

Spacer blocks can be used to lift the XJ rear, make sure to use only iron or steel blocks, and use a torque wrench on the u-bolts, rechecking the tightness often.

If reusing the stock lower control arms, they can be beefed up by welding a plate along the bottom to box them in.

Be sure to loosen all the control arm and spring bolts at the axle and frame ends, so that the bushings can rest in the null position, then once the lift is done, retorque the bolts to spec. If you don't, the bushings will be twisted at ride height, greatly shortening their life.

You will need new shocks. I like the Rancho 9000s for the adjustability, but other premium brands work well too.

After installation, and before the test drive, verify that the brake hoses are able to handle the added lift, and that the tires are not going to rub them at full lock to lock turns, full extension or compression of the springs.

Why do all the instructions for a 2" spacer say to keep the isolator, but the 3" says to not reuse the isolator? Wouldn't the 3" lift only get you 2 1/2" of lift without the isolator? Can I keep the isolator with the 3" spacer for a true 3" of lift?

Too much height of the spacer, and the spring won't be reliably retained in the upper mount. 3" is probably the maximum spacer lift.

The lift is all done. 3" spacers in front. 2" blocks and shackles in rear. The only thing left is to drill out all 4 upper shock bolts in the rear that broke. What a PITA. I forgot to pull the rear sway bar also, but realized that as soon as I went to put the tires back on.

Make sure to retorque the rear spring u-bolts TODAY, then again in another week, and then after each off road trip. the u-bolts will stretch a bit, then after they settle down, they will hold the torque. I think I remember that the torque spec is around 75 ft/lbs, but consult a manual to be sure.