I have a '96 Cherokee XJ with a bent steering tie rod and need to replace it. It's called different things, so just to make sure...it's the long straight tube which connects to the drag link just inside the right wheel and the left wheel steering knuckle.

The tie rod ends are good so I'm just replacing the tube, with Moog.

Originally I thought I could leave the tie rod ends attached at their respective end points and just PB for 2 days, remove clamps, and then twist the rod to remove it from one end then the other. Apparently I was wrong b/c the tube didn't budge.

So, to get this thing off I guess I need to remove both cotter pins and crown nuts at the tie rod ends, and then use my pitman arm wedge (looks like a tuning fork) to pound the ends off. I say pound because the only other time I've dealt with replacing a steering component was replacing the tie rod end b/t the pitman arm and drag link, and I had to use the olde sledge awfully hard to get it to pop off. I'm assuming these same type connections will be as difficult to separate.

Also, I'm concerned with getting my tires back straight after getting everything back together. I suppose I measure the distance between my front tires and then try to recreate that distance when installing the new piece.

Any advice at all is appreciated on how to do this. Thanks ahead.

Count the threads on the tie rod ends to get your approximation.

If it is bent, it will affect the measurement between your tires.

It is called a pickle fork...

And, a few whacks with a BFH is usually necessary...

When you have it complete, have the front end aligned by a shop that has the correct setup.

Thanks again K. Taking in for an alignment right after I get this done. What exactly is the correct setup for an alignment? Some kind of laser system maybe?

Although the rod is bent, I think it wouldn't turn before b/c I was using a large vice grip instead of a good pipe wrench. Wrench is on hand now so I'll be taking that approach again soon.

So if I get this right, if I turn what I'm gonna call the steering tube one way BOTH TREs back out and would eventually separate? And then turning the other way results in both tires toeing in? Sounds like the tube ends are threaded in opposite directions.

One of my boots has a gash so I'll be replacing it. What type of TRE boot do I ask for at the store? Or can they look it up based on location and veh type?

The most common alignment system is a simple series of measurements for angle to achieve the required toe in and camber.

Turning the tube is the hard way to remove it. The tie rod ends have a long threaded section.

Normal disassemble is to start with one tie rod end and remove it. They are held in by a castle nut with a cotter pin to keep it from backing off.

The tie rod end is tapered. It does bind in the hole. However, a few raps with a heavy hammer is usually enough to break the adhesion.

Worst case, you may need a combination of heat and hammer blows to loosen it. Again, the pickle fork helps force the end out of the taper.

Last time I replace a tie rod end, I recall the boot as part of the new tie rod end.

A pickle fork will usually damage the tie rod end/s, so it's best to have new ones available if that's the only way you have of getting them off. More than likely, they are worn enough to need replacing anyways.

There is a special tie rod end puller that wil remove them undamaged, a rental shop may have one. It clamps to the knuckle end and pushes direcly on the stud to pop it loose.

When you reassemble the tie rods, use anti-seize grease on the threads, it will make adjustments easier the next time.

There is a good way of adjusting the toe in with a simple tape measure and a piece of chalk. Have your jeep on a flat hard surface, most driveways will be long enough, too. It helps to have the normal driver in the front seat of the jeep or someone or something that weighs about the same, as weight will effect the toe setting on the XJ (TJ and ZJ too).

After replacing the parts, mark the front of the tires near the centerline of the tread, in a horizontal line with the axle centerline. Usually I pick a convenient tire lug point to get a good measurement from. take your front measurement between the lug points and write it down in 1/16"ths, ie. 57-14/16" (57-3/4") then roll the jeep back or forwards until the two marks are 180* back on the tires, even with the axle centerline at the rear. Measure the SAME two points again. Lets say you now come up with 56-15/16" This means you are toed out 15/16". The goal is about 1/16" toed in at the front. Splitting 15/16" in half, to the closest 1/16" would make it 7/16" plus 8/16", We need to subtract 8/16" from 57-15/16" to get the proper toe in, which leaves us with a goal on the front of 57-7/16". Now turn the tie rod adjuster so that the rear reads 57-8/16" between the points. Roll the jeep back and re-measure the front, if you are at the 1/16" toed in mark, tighten the sleeve bolts. If not, make the adjustment and recheck front to rear measurement. If you have really large tires, 1/8" in at the front is OK.

If the steering wheel is now off center, then the drag link sleeve can be turned to adjust the wheel centering without effecting the toe in.

Marty, very good reply to the OP.

However, it's 1:30 in the morning, I'm a little giddy, and I can't help nit-picking your reply.

In your example, you stated that 57-14/16 was equivalent to 57-3/4. Actually, it's not. 57-3/4 is equivalent to 57-12/16.

I'm going to bed. (g)

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It was a math test and you passed! <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/patriot.gif" alt="" />