Thanks for the advice. I spent some time searching for a vacuum leak this weekend, but to no avail. First I tried the hose-in-the-ear method, but couldn't find anything. Of course you can only get to about 20% of the overall surface area where leaks might occur with this method. So then I tried the spraying-carb-cleaner method(engine cold and fire extinguisher at hand, just in case) but no luck there either.

It'd be nice to have access to a smoke machine. If anyone has any other tricks, I'd love to hear them.

Also, there is one other symptom that I had forgotten about that might be helpful in diagnosing the problem. When I first start it cold, at the first stop sign or light, it seems that it's clearly "hunting", i.e the idle is dropping and then slowly climbing back up over and over. Once it gets warm, it stops doing this. This behavior has continued over a long period of time, so it doesn't seem that the ECU is ever convinced that it's got the system running correctly.

thanks,
steve

How does one determine if this pellet is working?

If it is bad where can a new TB with a good pellet be purchased? <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif" alt="" />

You see if it opens from a cold state and opens quite quickly. I guess, since I've never tried to take one apart, that it's pressed in somewhere under the isc ports. If you can determine where it is, and if that air path will hold water with the thermostatic fidle closed, pour warmed up water on it, raising the temp until it opens and lets the water go thru. I have no idea of the opening temp, and I've never seen the spec for it anywhere. I know it opens fast, so the open temp must be low, but how low, I don't know.

I'd try one of the online parts houses if the stealer doesn't have one. Or there's a bunch in the jy's. Not much to go wrong with one except the capsule and the shaft bushings.

So I got a salvage throttle body and sure enough that did the trick. I now can control the idle. I still think it is mysterious that nothing I tried could identify a vacuum leak. Oh well.

Has anyone followed the procedure to set the accelerator cable tension. I have a chiltons type manual (I couldn't find it in the FSM I downloaded here) that has you get the engine normal operating temp, turn the key on for 15 sec and then place a feeler gauge ( I can't remember the thickness) between the SAS and the throttle and then tighten the throttle cable tension to that. I followed this and either I am doing something wrong or its whacked! If you do this the throttle never touches the SAS and the idle speed is elevated and not controlled by anything.

I am still having issues with the timing. Now that I can control the idle speed I set the timing. With the timing set the engine pings severely. So I had to set the timing by driving it and adjusting the timing until I did not get any pinging. Something is still not right. The engine is sluggish and does not have the power I know it used to.

I'm stuck.

Hi everyone,


I am having the same problem with my 1990 MontyI chnaged the engine and replaced almost everything but still idles around 2000. The screw you mentioned above the air bypass screw, I cannot seem to find it, does anyone have a picture, sure would appreciate it.. and a Happy New Year to all..

Hi the air bypass screw, I cannot find it... can soeone send me a picture,

On mitsubishilinks.com there is a Mitsubishi paper on just that issue. Go thro the p/w listings.