I have searched the different threads or archives and have not found the answers to a few questions I need.
I live in Birmingham AL and went to a pull a part yard yesterday. They have a 89 2.6L raider there pretty much complete. I wanted the front windshield which looked to be good until I got the gasket cut out and found the left bottom corner cracked (the corner covered by the gasket) (facing vehicle) I elected not to proceed with removal. Question I have is what vehicles should I look at to find a windshield or should I try to find something new?
I also a tried to remove the electric door lock switch from the back door. I either have a bad motor or bad switch. If anyone has one I will open to purchasing one.
Finally I have been researching weber carb conversion kits. I have
found there are two kits that fit the 2.6L. 1 is the weber 32/36 wk614, and 1 is the weber 38 w614/38.
If anyone has experience with either of the these please let me know which is the best kit to go with. The 2.6L is bored 30 over and is getting a header.
Thanks
Chiefgb <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/patriot.gif" alt="" />

PM me and we can discuss a lock motor for you. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />

I have a lowered 2wd ram 50 with the 2.6, I have a Doug Thorley Header and full 2.5 exhaust matched with a Weber 38. I find when I switched to the weber I gained lots of low end torque... Or at least it feels that way cause both the butterfly's open at the same time so it gives wicked throttle response and with proper jetting and a good tune it runs on fumes if you are easy on it.

That is why I am looking for one for my 4wd ram 50 right now

The windshield I just bought new 110 installed but I had to have the windshield guys order a new window molding. He said he search for a day and could t find anyone with one in stock so he had to have a classic trim/moulding company make one. Cost 70 bux. The one that was around my window was already dried out and was just dust if removed.

If you can't find a good windshield in a junkyard, a glass shop should have no problem whatsoever sourcing one.

I used the 32/36 kit when I had a 2.6. The problem I had was the dieseling when shutting the car off. I found that an adjustable fpr was necessary to get it dialed in for running well on the road. There was some tinkering with the linkages if memory serves correct as well, but nothing major. I'm sure the dieseling problem could have been solved with some tuning.

Chief,I recently bought a 1987 Raider with a broken windshield however it came with a bunch of extra parts one being a new windshield,so I had some glass guys come out to install it, and when they removed the windshield wow was there a lot of rust, looking back I wish I would have removed the windshield myself,sanded it down to bare metal, primed,painted then come have them reinstall it, or I guess I could have had them leave and come back but oh well, its just a plow truck, you may not have that problem since your in Al. and Im in Neb.As far as the carb. goes I purchased a 32/36, from what I read on here that fit my needs best, however the day the carb arrived it started running and idling perfect so I haven't installed it yet since there were higher priorities, but since your already bored out and going to install a header, sounds like you'd want a 38 IMO. also from what I read get a 3-5lb. pressure regulator and another fuel filter Good luck!!!

Definitely have to get a fuel pressure regulator, the Weber likes to only have 1.5 to 2lbs of pressure. Put that on and got rid of the dieseling and my mileage increased. It always ran rich til I put that on. Also take it apart and lower the float 1-2mm below what they call for will help on hills. They have a funny habit of dying on hills without some massaging. There is also a modification to vent the float bowl differently than stock that help if you get on steep hills and rough, bouncy terrain. Don't know if it would of been an improvement over a brand new stock carb back in the day, but these carbs now have 20+ years on them and things internally are wearing.

I have a Weber 32/36 on my 2.6, which is basically stock. From what I remember on the carb website, a 32/36 is fine for a stock motor, don't really have to mess with the fuel system (fuel pump, regulator, etc). With a modded motor, a 38 is recommended, along with some fuel system upgrades.

Regardless of which carb you get, the Webers seem to be pretty sensitive to their fuel/air and idle settings. Mine will diesel on occasion, and usually a 1/8th turn on the idle set screw will more or less fix it, along with some mid-grade gas.