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Switch to synthetic... better pressure, but now burning a bit? #1042479 02/22/12 01:56 AM
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 60
seely Offline OP
Getting the Wheeling Fever
I gave the Monty it's first oil change under my care, and went to Mobile 1 5w30. I've used Mobil 1 in other higher mileage vehicles (this has 160k) and had good results. I was pleased to see my oil pressure is much stronger, but now when I take off from the first few stop signs, before the engine is totally warmed up, I get a nice puff of blue smoke that I never did before with the used up dino oil. I'm not *too* concerned -- it goes away once the engine hits operating temp, but I'm a little uneasy it just started all the sudden after the oil change.


Third times a charm.
Re: Switch to synthetic... better pressure, but now burning a bit? [Re: seely] #1042480 02/22/12 02:14 AM
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 4,479
StockRaider Offline
Roll Me Over
***
I run 10w30 in my trucks, even a rebuilt motor I run 10w30. I would suspect valve seals are whats causing the smoke. not a big deal. 7 years of driving my own personal fog machine and zero problems. I fixed it just because I got tired of the cloud while offroading.


Richard E
1989 Montero - Stock-ish
1989 V6 Auto Raider - 5.3 Vortech Swap.
1987 Mitsubishi Starion 2.6t, soon to be 3.5
1983 Honda XL600R
Re: Switch to synthetic... better pressure, but now burning a bit? [Re: StockRaider] #1042481 02/22/12 02:16 AM
Joined: Jan 2000
Posts: 7,309
PHIL_ Offline
Trail Leader
*****
Quote
I run 10w30 in my trucks, even a rebuilt motor I run 10w30. I would suspect valve seals are whats causing the smoke. not a big deal. 7 years of driving my own personal fog machine and zero problems. I fixed it just because I got tired of the cloud while offroading.


Yep. Mosquito-bishi was what they used to call mine on the trail. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/lol.gif" alt="" />

Try a nice Rotella diesel 15w40 until you do them valve seals someday...


1991 HZJ77, 1999 KZJ90, 1999 UZJ100, 1992 M101CDN2
https://www.thegearheadproject.com/category/jdm-journeys/

Re: Switch to synthetic... better pressure, but now burning a bit? [Re: StockRaider] #1042482 02/22/12 02:23 AM
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 60
seely Offline OP
Getting the Wheeling Fever
Just out of curiosity, what's your oil pressure usually read, if you know?

Thanks for the reassurance. I'm not too concerned, just thought it was odd to change the oil and instantly start having this issue.


Third times a charm.
Re: Switch to synthetic... better pressure, but now burning a bit? [Re: seely] #1042483 02/22/12 02:42 AM
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 4,479
StockRaider Offline
Roll Me Over
***
90psi cold, 60psi running @3krpm, 20-30 idle warm with a mechanical gauge. 0-30 on the factory gauge at all times.


Richard E
1989 Montero - Stock-ish
1989 V6 Auto Raider - 5.3 Vortech Swap.
1987 Mitsubishi Starion 2.6t, soon to be 3.5
1983 Honda XL600R
Re: Switch to synthetic... better pressure, but now burning a bit? [Re: StockRaider] #1042484 02/22/12 04:43 AM
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 60
seely Offline OP
Getting the Wheeling Fever
Great, thanks -- sounds about where I am roughly as well.


Third times a charm.
Re: Switch to synthetic... better pressure, but now burning a bit? [Re: seely] #1042485 02/22/12 05:30 AM
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 13,649
fasteddy Offline
Web Wheeler
*****
Drain the synth. Refill with 10w40 diesel dino oil plus a quart of dexron and run it for a couple hundred miles. Drain and refill with synth and report back.

Synth leaks easier than dino, so it goes past ALL seals and gaskets easier. The dexron will soften and swell the seals some which will delay the need to do a top end teardown. An added benefit is the high detergent level in the dexron which will clean some of the crud and sludge out.


Not responsible for advice not taken...
Re: Switch to synthetic... better pressure, but now burning a bit? [Re: fasteddy] #1042486 02/22/12 05:38 AM
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 6,211
JohnnyBfromPeoria Offline
Trail Leader
*****
Quote
An added benefit is the high detergent level in the dexron which will clean some of the crud and sludge out.


Boy will it ever. Just don't leave it in too long.

Rotella T synthetic is good stuff. I use the non-energy conserving stuff in my motorcycle (better for the wet clutch) and occasionally the regular synthetic in my '95, although I'm partial to Mobil 1. BTW, my '95 does not smoke at 185K miles on the stock heads and valve guides/seals.

John B.


'87 Raider 2.6 Turbo Auto, Under Construction
'95 Montero SR, 35x12.5/15 BFG M/T KM-2's, Rock sliders, Qtr panel chop, gas tank lift, 2" BL, Aisins, 5.29s
'95 Pajero Mini
'98 Montero Winter Ed.
'04 Cadillac XLR
'03 Kawasaki ZRX1200R
'60 Ford Falcon 4Dr
Re: Switch to synthetic... better pressure, but now burning a bit? [Re: fasteddy] #1042487 02/22/12 06:11 AM
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 427
boostin Offline
Mudrunner
Quote
Drain the synth. Refill with 10w40 diesel dino oil plus a quart of dexron and run it for a couple hundred miles. Drain and refill with synth and report back.

Synth leaks easier than dino, so it goes past ALL seals and gaskets easier. The dexron will soften and swell the seals some which will delay the need to do a top end teardown. An added benefit is the high detergent level in the dexron which will clean some of the crud and sludge out.



I have often wondered that about the dexron, my rear main starting leaking the last week think this might be a good way to get a few more months out of it?


1989 Mighty Max 4WD 2.6 Turbo,Auto EFI...megasquirt! 4.62 Rear LSD!
1989 Mighty Max 2WD 2.6 5 speed slammed
1993 Eagle Talon TSI
Re: Switch to synthetic... better pressure, but now burning a bit? [Re: boostin] #1042488 02/22/12 06:25 AM
Joined: May 2000
Posts: 6,132
K
Kevin C Offline
Trail Leader
****
Many of the high mileage motor oils have extra seal swelling compounds. Mobil high mileage synthetic has extra detergent to help clean the motor out.


87 Turbo Intercooled Raider, roller cam, torsen rear diff, LSD front diff, lockup auto with modified converter, V6 brakes, low transfer case gears...
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