im hoping its the 4 bolts behind where the drum bolts up,and that i can just slide axle out after removing bolts. got a replacement drum and axle off ebay for 60 bucks. the drums new. axle looks good has the bearing,race and seal still on it.

do i need to get into diff for c-clips,or pins or anything?
thanks..well im thinkin not since there no diff cover. there would be no way to remove pumpkin without the axles already slid out..hmmm

have you checked on kiatechinfo.com?? if not, register. it's free.. it answers these types of questions.. well, most of them at least. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />

The rear axles are held in by retaining plates - those 4 bolts behind the drum. You may need a slide-hammer to pull the axle (friction from the bearing and seal... no C-clips on the rear). If you haven't pulled the drum before, use the 2 Phillips-head screws in the drum to "walk-off" the drum (done by moving the screws into the 2 empty holes in the drum and turning one screw a little, then the other, and so forth until the drum slides over the brake pads). Be sure to transfer those screws to the new drum. They are quite handy. Oh yeah - if the replacement axle doesn't have the retaining plate, you will have to transfer it from the old axle. And that means you will have to remove and replace the bearing, retaining collar and seal (no harm in going with fresh parts, aside from the extra cost). But I suspect that if the seal and bearing is on the new axle, the retaining plate is too... hopefully. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/scared.gif" alt="" />

you got me goat..lazy as charged. been on kiatech a few years. just makin small talk really.

thanks peabody...those are the little tips i was looking for. got old axle out last night. couple smacks with hammer on the backside and she popped out. used axle does have plate, seal,bearing,race. they look good.

one thing i noticed is the outer bearing is packed. it doesnt get lubed from the axle oil. theres a seal on axle before bearing.also the nut holding bearing on is reverse threaded. these little cars are so easy to work on.

im gonna repack other axle bearing, put 2 new wheel cylinders, new shoes on both sides. and new drum on the side with new axle. should be good then.
i put her in a ditch couple years ago bent left rear axle and drum. it was laughable. that tire wobbled so bad it was funny. thing is the axle and drum were both tweaked,so i pulled drum rotated it 180 deg. and it offset the bend in axle. almost perfectly. but...lots of pulsation in brake pedal. then blew a wheel cylinder. so just makin it right after all this time. thanks guys <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" />

hahahaa. it's all good. glad you got some tips. the tech info is good for most stuff, but does leave out some other things.. or you can't find them occasionally!

i find these cars/trucks to be a major pain. something goes wrong every time i work on mine. every time... never fails..

wont need slide hammer they pull right out i have a old post with pics some where when i did my lsd <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />

what a drag... pulsating is in the front brakes. needed to do the rear, so alls not lost i was just hoping i was done. geuss it rotors for the front this weekend.. $$$$.. bout all gone.

when the rears were off the ground,i put it in gear and got tires spinning,hit brakes.real smooth,no pulsing. in forward or reverse. so pulsing must be a rotor.i need to make sure the calipers are floating correctly. these rotors are only couple years old. guess when the rears werent working well i fried the front when towing stuff. campers and atv's. is a 30 footer with slide out too much for these cars? ..just kidding campers only 12 feet.