It's lookin like I better not put it in 4wd untill I change the inner boots. Very deeply cracked but not leaking. That Memorial Day trip almost totally did them in. Maybe I should massage some AT fluid into them untill I can do this.

I already have the "fat axle MT" snaprings that go inside the diff.
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Is there a seal in the drive's side of diff. I need to replace??? Looks like this passenger side just unbolts.
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I need to get the needle bearings.
Are the AT and fat axle MT the same part number?
Do they have to be pressed in?
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I guess there's a seal for the needle bearing, but not sure of part number on rockauto,,,part number ???
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Do you have to remove whole knuckle assembly at the ball joints?
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Maybe I should just drop the front diff.
Can you do it that work that way without disconnecting ball joints???
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I have 2wd dummy washers from inside a 2wd M.S. knuckle,,, hammer them in and make it a 2wd for awhile???Krzy???
While it's out replace all front bushings.
(( Dang,,wish I had a 2nd vehicle)).

ok,,,,
I see part numbers in FAQs.
My concerns are getting things apart and having not having right parts and paying all that shipping for nothing(help). Part # listings in FAQs are from folks with Gen1s with AT or 2.6s,,,these have smaller diameter axles.
Are the MT larger diameter in all aspects???? Requreing different needlebearings, differential seal(or seals), and knuckle seals.
On rockauto you have to pay attention--ex., they list one brand boot and it says "fits all but AT,,,and it's the one for the AT. So I sure don't trust bearing #s(they show a roller bearing for a needle bearing)and seal #s.
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edit:
OK, now I just found DIY in FAQs.
Still have MT axle part # questions.
Also, I don't see how I can get a hammer in there to smack ball joints with the axle in the way.
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All boots are specificly for MT, as are the snaprings inside the diff,, or wherever they go,,, so I'm not sure on these other parts.
(I've never done CV boots before on anything).

On Rockauto , of coarse each part is comming from a different wharehouse <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif" alt="" />. AutoZombie and O'riely can't get boots for any Montero.
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The pside shaft comes out without taking the knuckle apart, just take out the bolts between cv shaft and axle inner shaft.

To take the dside apart, release the torsion bar tension counting the turns so you get it back right. Use a hammer and a backup hammer on the tie rod end eye and the ball joint eyes. Put the backup hammer on one side (I like a sledge head there) and whang the other side with some vigor (I like about a 3-4lb drilling hammer for the whanger - bfh rules here). All this after loosening the nuts. The hammer strike springs the eye and pops the tapered pin out. If you have a pickle fork, it also helps to drive it in and preload the come apart some. Never drive the threaded end of the taper pins - it kills the threads even with the nut on there and it's not near as effective as whanging the eye to spring it.

Can't help much with the boots themselves. A look at ASA doesn't shed much light, but I didn't compare the 5spd and a/t part #'s in there. Lazy, I guess. If you can't find out for sure, I'll look closer.

Thanks on those techniques,,,that helps alot and will save me messing up those threads, cause I thought about pounding a half threaded on nut. I always seem to trear boots with a pickle fork. Guess I need bifocals to make sure its on right.
So (I'll read again) , I can do the passenger side without messing with ball joints. I'll do one side in July , the other in Aug.

Looks like it to me, Dave. 4 bolt flat flange on the pside inner axle to cv axle connection - take that loose and take off the axle nut, and it should slide out towards the middle. You don't drive the pickle fork in far enought to tear the boot, just far enough to put some load on it, and watch for it flying when the taper comes loose. It's not really necessary, if you get a good whang on the side of the eye, but a solid backup is absolutely necessary.

Dave, on the boot tearing with the pickle fork, as you know, it happens once the fork gets tight and starts to pull/shear on the boot as you pound. I have had luck making a shim our of thin sheet metal that is like the shape on the end of the fork. Slide the shim in first to "shield" the boot. Then get the fork between the shim and other half of what you are separating. Keep the shim for future use of course.

Gen 2 front left CV boot
http://www.pajeroclub.co.za/forum/viewtopic.php?f=52&t=630

Gen 3 Front right inner shaft bearing
http://www.4x4community.co.za/forum/showthread.php?t=109712

These may help.

I've read that smearing the surfaces with grease where the pickle fork contacts the boot helps to prevent tearing the old boots. Haven't had the opportunity to try it yet but thought I'd pass on the tip.

Or you could look at your local stores for the correct Mitsubishi tool like this.


http://s7.sears.com/is/image/Sears/00996404000?qlt=90,0&resMode=sharp&op_usm=0.9,0.5,0,0

I've never been able to find that tool in a large enough size to fit around the fat montero balljoint. Ordered 2 different ones from NAPA from their big fat cataloge that were too small, I guess they fit toy 4wds like nissans and such.
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I looked at the gen 2 boot change on your Gen 2 with the steering wheel on the wrong side you posted on here in FAQs, very helpful.
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Right now I'm planning to just do the right shaft. I can remove the needle bearing and seal and see if NAPA can match them up. It's only a 3 mile walk to NAPA and they can usually get me stuff in 2-3 days , if it's available. I'll try my Montero Sport 2wd plug in that hub if I have a long wait on parts, since I'll be able to drive with the left still in place hold in diff. fluids.
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Has anybody gotten OEM boots come in a NAPA or other brand aftermarket packaging??? Rockauto has a good deal on the inner MT boots but the outer boot come from a different shipper, bearings from another and seals from yet another. With all that shipping it's cheaper to support my dependable local NAPA store.
Like I said O'Rielly and AutoZone here can only get Dorman. The one they showed me was grey and might fit a fiat or something. It sure wasn't for a Montero.