Extreme Terrain
4x4Wire Trail Talk Forums: Jeep, Toyota, Mitsubishi, Pajero, Isuzu, Kia, 4WD, 4x4, SUV, Off-Road and OutdoorWire Forums


Previous Thread
Next Thread
Print Thread
Rate Thread
Page 1 of 2 1 2
rear brake problem #1048860 07/08/12 05:25 AM
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 56
M
menotthat Offline OP
Getting the Wheeling Fever
Hey guys i have a problem with my rear brakes. Need some help. 97 manual sportage 220,000kms

The left side feels like it is always engaged. When the car is cold it isn't as bad, but after some driving i notice the problem gets worse. When i try to roll on flat ground i need to give it more to move it. Plus i hear the left rear make noise like i am trying to drive with the handbrake partly on. Back right is fine.

Checked handbrake line under the car and it does move slightly when the handbrake is applied but not as much as the right one.

So i tried to inspect it yesterday by looking in the rubber holes on the backing plate. Once i removed the top centre cover it had brake fluid and black dust on it. A few weeks back i did notice my brake fluid level had gone done to low. Hasn't dropped much since but has become darker in colour.

So i assume the cylinder needs replacing. But i can't remove the drum to inspect it. Been on kiatech site and followed the directions getting it off but it tries to move a little. When i try to move it i think the pads are stuck to the rotor or i may have a lip. So i tried to turn the star wheel by putting a screwdriver in to push the locking part away, but when i try to turn the wheel, one way moves the drum a little and i cannot move the other way. From bottom of star to top moves drum, no movement the other way.

So any ideas on drum removal? Could my self adjuster be stuck? Could my return spring be broken?

Is it safe to grind the drum off? I do plan on getting another one. I think they are original.

Also is this site ok to buy from http://www.carpartsdiscount.com

The dealer here says the brake spring set will be 3 1/2 weeks from Korea. I would assume that this site could get it to me quicker than that.

Thanks guys.


97 sportage, mostly stock apart from king springs front and rear, monroe shocks, k&n filter, pioneer mp3 cd, rampage 2x 10"subs and rampage amp.
Re: rear brake problem [Re: menotthat] #1048861 07/08/12 07:21 AM
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 326
Peabody Offline
Mudrunner
Use the 2 screws in the drum to remove the drum by moving them to the 2 empty, threaded holes. Give each a turn, alternating between the two to "walk" the drum off the brake shoes. You could have a stuck parking brake cable on one side, as the cable "Y"s to each side. Or you could have something amiss in the brake hardware. Once you pull the drums, you will have a better idea of what's going on. Hope that helps... <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/patriot.gif" alt="" />


1997 Sportage 4x4, auto-trans, Warn manual hubs, 4" UPYOURKIA front lift, TJ 106AA rear springs, 2-5/8" body lift, 31x10.50 treads, SmittyBilt SRC front and XRC rear bumper, swing-out tire mount, OBX LSD front diff, Track Finder rear locker, 5.38 R&Ps and... really crappy gas mileage! <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/shiner.gif" alt="" />
Re: rear brake problem [Re: Peabody] #1048862 07/08/12 03:40 PM
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 360
Lou Offline
Mudrunner
Same symptoms appeared on mine a few years ago. The leaking brake fluid had dissolved the glue holding the brake lining to the shoe and the lining was moving loose inside the brake , sometimes catching and blocking the wheel rotation.
Use a very good and large size phillips bit to unscrew the two screws. Remember the screws do not hold the drum in place: they are there as a tool to help pulling the drum off as Peabody says. . I had to use heat almost every time to get them loose. Now I keep them in a safe place separated from the drum to avoid that problem when I need them to pull the drum. IN fact, if you happened to have other screws with the EXACT same thread, you do not need to fuss around removing the original: just use yours to help pull the drum off.

Re: rear brake problem [Re: Lou] #1048863 07/08/12 08:19 PM
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 175
TheGoat Offline
Wheeler
fyi, on the parts ordering thing, check out www.rockauto.com instead. i have purchased radiator/fan clutch/window regulators,/oil filters etc from them for my kia alone and never had an issue.


So, i bought an 01 Kia Sportage. before i even drove it, i nick-named it The Goat.. it has been just like a goat.. stubbern at every corner...
Re: rear brake problem [Re: Peabody] #1048864 07/09/12 09:28 AM
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 56
M
menotthat Offline OP
Getting the Wheeling Fever
i will give walking the drum a go on the weekend. If there is a lip in there will it just come eventually?

Lou..lucky for me the one screw that is still in the drum is easy to get out, unlucky though at some point in the past the second screw was attempted to be used and must have broke off. So i need to remove the remains of the screw that is stuck and i might use the other one to thread match a bolt to.

TheGoat....will give them a look. Hopefully they ship overseas.

Thanks guys. Trying to get prepared before round 2.


97 sportage, mostly stock apart from king springs front and rear, monroe shocks, k&n filter, pioneer mp3 cd, rampage 2x 10"subs and rampage amp.
Re: rear brake problem [Re: menotthat] #1048865 07/11/12 10:15 PM
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 360
Lou Offline
Mudrunner
You can always remove the rubber grommet at the back of the brake plate and use a large screwdriver to unscrew the brake adjuster manually ...mmm..it is always a guess(at least for me) which way , up or down...will release...but even as a trial and error method, it will work...
..I understand the screw was broken in the "work" hole, not the "park" hole...right?...
And as you torque the screws to walk the drum, mastering the hammer is a great help... <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />

Re: rear brake problem [Re: menotthat] #1048866 07/15/12 06:10 AM
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 1,396
DennisThompson Offline
Body Damage is Cool
The screws in the drum are only there to remove and screw them into the threaded holes to push the drums off, they are to short to do the job, if you remove some bolts from your front hubs and use them they are long enough to push the drum off, just be careful not to bend them or you will be st the parts store buying new bolts.

Hope that helps, Dennis


95 Sportage, gone but not forgotten.
98 Jeep TJ, 4" Zone springs with RC Long arms, Ford 8.8", 4.56 gears & Detroit locker rear, D30, 4.56 & Detroit Trutrack front.
Re: rear brake problem [Re: DennisThompson] #1048867 07/16/12 09:46 AM
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 56
M
menotthat Offline OP
Getting the Wheeling Fever
Decided to wait till this weekend to tear it apart. When i have all my parts to replace most stuff in there.

Dennis...So if i read this right, the bolts "thread" from my front hubs will fit in that working hole? If it is true then i can just duck into the bolt shop, take out one hub bolt there and get them to match it. Thanks.

Plus i will need to replace the front rotors. Instead of going to the dealer, does anyone know the details of the screws that hold the front rotors on the hub?

Thanks guys


97 sportage, mostly stock apart from king springs front and rear, monroe shocks, k&n filter, pioneer mp3 cd, rampage 2x 10"subs and rampage amp.
Re: rear brake problem [Re: menotthat] #1048868 07/16/12 05:01 PM
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 360
Lou Offline
Mudrunner
Short and sweet from KIA:

To remove wheel bearings, the free wheel hub must first be removed. Refer to ôFree Wheel Hubö in this section.
1. Remove two bolts and remove brake caliper from brake rotor. Temporarily tie caliper to vehicle frame with wire.
2. Remove two screws and take off brake rotor.
.........

I changed front rotors years ago...
..as much as I remember, the screws are same as rear ones...and since I have acetylene kit, I must have used heat in the process....

Re: rear brake problem [Re: Lou] #1048869 07/25/12 08:02 AM
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 56
M
menotthat Offline OP
Getting the Wheeling Fever
so here is an update

i had to drill and re-tap the working hole that had the remains of a bolt in it. It was a long process because i didn't want to drill into the axle plate.

Purchased 2 bolts to use to "walk" the drum off.
If anyone is interested:
M8-1.25 metric. Standard 8mm thread.
I got 60mm long bolts threaded all the way.
The original screw i pulled was 15mm long.

The drum started to move, even though i could hear the shoes moving, it came forward so far (10-15mm) then i couldn't move it anymore. Looked in the hole at the back and i could see the star adjuster further away from the backing plate.

So there must be a lip. Hold the star's locking lever out of the way and try to turn it. No movement either way.
I did tap the drum back into place before trying.

Tried for about an hour trying to move the star. Nothing.

Starting to get annoyed with it.

So any ideas on how to get it off?

I am considering an angle grinder and cut the drum face off.
If i go down the angle grinder route, what should i avoid?
I have replacement drums, spring kit, wheel cylinders and shoes. I need to avoid all parts of the hand brake and star.

The drum hasn't been off for at least 60,000kms.

Thanks.


97 sportage, mostly stock apart from king springs front and rear, monroe shocks, k&n filter, pioneer mp3 cd, rampage 2x 10"subs and rampage amp.
Page 1 of 2 1 2

Moderated by  4x4Wire, Axe Man, DamKia 







4x4Wire Social:

| 4x4Wire on FaceBook |


OutdoorWire, 4x4Wire, JeepWire, TrailTalk, MUIRNet-News, and 4x4Voice are all trademarks and publications of OutdoorWire, Inc. and MUIRNet Consulting.
Copyright (c) 1999-2019 OutdoorWire, Inc and MUIRNet Consulting - All Rights Reserved, no part of this publication may be reproduced in any form without express written permission
You may link freely to this site, but no further use is allowed without the express written permission of the owner of this material.
All corporate trademarks are the property of their respective owners.

Powered by UBB.threads™ PHP Forum Software 7.7.3
(Release build 20190728)
PHP: 7.4.33 Page Time: 0.005s Queries: 16 (0.003s) Memory: 0.6427 MB (Peak: 0.7696 MB) Data Comp: Off Server Time: 2026-05-29 16:16:15 UTC
Valid HTML 5 and Valid CSS