Hey all,

So I've replace the solenoids and freewheel switch, and still get the flashing CDL. My next step is to test the transfercase switches per this site: http://www.pajeroclub.co.za/forum/viewtopic.php?f=52&t=2077

A few questions though: 1. Should I have the ignition on when I do this? 2) How do I go about checking the continuity? Do I put one lead of my multimeter on the pin in the switch and the other to the transfer case or what? THanks for the great sites and the help.

Thanks
Gavin

Not sure.


No.

The connector should have 2 pins.

Put your multimeter (analog one is easier to read for this) on resistance measurement (ohms) or the Omega symbol.

Put one test lead on each of the connector pins.

The meter should read either 0 or infinite ohms.

With the multimeter leads still in place depress the switch. It should now read the opposite the opposite of what it read before you triggered the switch.

Additionally, with it reading 0 ohms, wiggle the wires around at the switch and the connector while checking if it changes the original reading. If it does, then you may have an intermittent open in the wires. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />

I'll crawl under there and give that a try this morning sometime. I've checked everything else, so it is most likely the t-case switches, but I want to be sure before I go throw money at it.

On a related note, it looks like the switches are on top of the t-case and difficult to get to. Is this the sort of thing where I can remove the rear driveshaft, remove the t-case crossmember and lower the case enough to get the switches in and out?

I haven't done this, but others have said that this is exactly how they've changed out the switches. Good luck, and please follow up with what you discovered!

Without a hoist getting at these switches is just about impossible unless you have four hands - even when front wheels are on a ramp. Make sure the dirt has been cleaned off the T-case or it will fall inside when the switch is removed.

If I remember the switch has one wire to it and the circuit is grounded through the body of the switch. If that's the case then you'd test by touching the wire contact and the switch body for continuity as you press the plunger.

I'm going to have to check/clean my switches too - I'm getting flashing front tires and flashing rear diff lights (C/D seems normal).

Is there an aftermarket source for the T-case switches and solenoids, or are they $tealership-only??? <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/scared.gif" alt="" />

I developed an error condition when switching to 4HLc & 4LLc (4WD works great) so I took advantage of some rare good weather and crawled under to meter my switches. I'm guessing an internal short in some of the switches since I get an open circuit when there should be continuity but note at the same time that there's continuity between the wire and the body of the t-case (i.e., ground). It's damned confusing...every one of the continuity checks had errors (either cont when there shouldn't be or vice versa).

I'm going to have to see a circuit diagram showing the various operation modes to interpret these results. Otherwise, it's just going to be a matter of biting the $$ bullet and replacing all of them.

Okay, after a nights sleep, I did some figurig to make sure I understand the system properly.

The solenoids receive signals from the 4wd ECU. That signal comes from a switch on the t-case, which in turn comes from the shift lever sensor. So, if the shift lever sends the signal to the t-case switch, but the switch is no good, then it won't send the signal to the solenoid.


Is this correct?

Thanks all