Well the clutch pedal does not return when depressed.
Plenty of liquid in the master cyl. Res. ...but the small round reseviour to the right of the master cyc. and behind the windshield washer reseviour on the drivers side of the engine compartment is bone dry!

Is that the culprit? Do I fill it with transmission fluid?

Hey there, time to get the FSM at mitsubishilinks.com. Sounds like the clutch master cylinder is empty, probably due to a blown out slave cylinder. Do yourself a favor: replace or rebuild both at the same time, and bleed thoroughly.

Maybe - Maybe Not.

What's that small Nabco reseviour behind the windshield washer reseviour? I'm gonna start there

No sarcasm. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/ignore.gif" alt="" /> No need to be a ninny when someone has the right idea for your repair. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/lol.gif" alt="" />

The small cylinder is the clutch master cylinder. This system uses the same hydraulic fluid as the brake system, NOT ATF!

The slave cylinder on the transmission has seals that wear out. If you haven't replaced them, and no one else has, then the seals are 24-25 years old. The seal kits for the master and slave cylinder will run you about $30, a bit more for new master and slave cylinders. Replace the flexible hose as well.

Thanks Russell, I'll try putting brake fluid in that small resiviour/master cycl. res. and see what happens.

No sarcasm intended

Unfortunately, filling it won't solve your problem. There's air in there. Your clutch won't even release fully. Its a hydraulic system just like your brakes. Before you waste your time and brake fluid...

replace the slave cylinder
replace the master
replace the flexible hose

get some aquarium tubing from anywhere, heat up the end so that it slips over the nipple on the slave. Crack it. Fill the master. When you start seeing brake fluid in the tubing, then route the tubing up to the master so that you have a closed circuit. Keep pumping until there are no more air bubbles. Close the bleeder, make sure your clutch disengages. No? tap the master/slave with the big end of a screw driver to displace air bubbles. Rinse, repeat. When its done, close the bleeder, remove the tube, have a beer.

Thanks Geo,

Got any sources or part#'s I should use to replace the master and slave. Napa parts??

How much time and $$ should I expect this to take

I had good experience (no returns) selling Beck / Arnley, EIS, Raybestos, and Wagner when I worked parts. Napa will have access to these brands, too. As a consumer, I have scavenged parts from my parts cars when I was driving my Raider every day. When I had to purchase something, it was always the budget part because Roxy was my work car and I could write off some of the expense.

For the two cylinders and hose, expect about $120 out the door. If you have time, I understand that Rock Auto (.com) is even better.

rxinhed nailed the price. You can buy rebuild kits very cheaply too, but if there's pitting in the master or slave then its a waste. As far as how long it takes, I'd say an afternoon. And, make sure you have a 10mm flare nut wrench for getting the line apart. It'll really help when trying to get the flexible hose off the hard line. I almost rounded mine with a standard wrench before I borrowed a flare wrench from a neighbor. I'm talking about one of these:

Thanks Guys,

I'll check Rockauto and Napa tomorrow.

Any "How To" write ups or video for this anywhere on the forum??
I'm sure I can figure it out, but always helpfull to have some guidance from someone who has accomplished the task.